Comments, impressions, and voices from the sixth IFSC World Cup stage of the 2024 season.
19/07 – Women’s Lead final
Kotake Mei (JPN), first with 49+:
“I still can’t believe I have won my first gold. It’s been a long journey for me to get on the World Cup podium. With many of the top climbers not competing, I thought it was my time to win, and I’m happy I made it.
“In my time away from the competition circuit I focused on rock Climbing, which allowed me to become stronger.”
Laura Rogora (ITA), second with 45:
“I’m happy because I gave all my had on the route. It’s been a long time since my last World Cup podium, and I feel this is a good performance in the lead up to the Olympic Games.”
Mattea Pötzi (AUT), third with 42+:
“I’m overwhelmed right now. It will need some time to sink in. I wouldn’t have expected my first World Cup medal. I thought I was even out of semi-final after my first climb in qualification, so it was definitely a good job coming back from that.”
19/07 – Men’s Lead final
Murashita Zento (JPN), first with 47+:
“I’m very happy, this result is a bit surprising to me. I was able to climb to my limit, and climb very well.”
Yoshida Satone (JPN), second with 45:
“I’m not frustrated, but disappointed, because I think I could have climbed to the top, I just slipped with my right hand. This is still my first silver medal, it’s a one more step towards my next goal, and I’m looking forward to it.”
18/07 – Men’s Lead semi-final
Mattea Pötzi (AUT), second with 41+
“I tried my best and got into the flow well. The route was surprisingly easy, to be honest, especially in the steep part. Every hold was good. And at the end with the big slopers, it got hard, and I got pumped. Tomorrow I just want to climb, have fun, and give my all!”
18/07 – Men’s Lead semi-final
Max Bertone (FRA), fifth with 47:
“I’m so happy! This was probably one of my biggest goals this year. Actually, my goal was to do well in the semi-final, I would have never imagined making it to the final in a World Cup. It’s a dream coming true.
“To do this in front of a French audience is the best. I know they are here to push me to my limit, and the final will be good with their support.”
Sebastian Halenke (GER), eighth with 45:
“My climb in the semi-final was decent. I felt a bit pumped. I was hesitant, and I should not have tried to switch feet just before slipping. I should have tried to kind of campus, and it cost me the slip. I think I could have done at least two more moves.
“The route was pure endurance, so you could only get more pumped, but not fall. It was super basic, and I didn’t have time to train for this type of climb, as I am still recovering from a knee surgery I had in April. The holds were brand new, but the route felt like one from when I started competing many years ago.”
18/07 – Women’s Lead qualification
Manon Hily (FRA), fifth with 37 and 41+:
“Qualification routes were very cool to climb. It’s been a complicated period for me, following the Olympic Qualifier Series, and for the first time, here in Briançon, I feel good with my Climbing.
“The French team is big here, and we were able to bring some family and friends too. It’s perfect.”
Valentina Aguado (ARG), 28th with 32 and 33+:
“My objective at this competition was to make semi-final, but I think it’s going to be a bit hard. I climbed very high on my first route, but in the second one I hesitated a lot on a move where you don’t have to hesitate. I should have done at least two or three more moves to consider it a good performance.
“I was the first climber out here, but even if I’m the last one I always try to look at the positive side of each thing, because if you start worrying about stuff that don’t matter, it will impact your performance. When you climb first the route is clean, and you don’t have to wait so long in the warm-up area.”
18/07 – Men’s Lead qualification
Ties Vancraeynest (BEL), seventh with 36 and 29+:
“My first route felt amazing. The start was a bit tricky, a lost a bit of time there, but once the crimps arrived, I just kept going. With my legs I think I could do a couple of moves more than the other guys. The result is good, even though I am not completely satisfied with my performance on the second route.”
Rhys Conlon (GBR), 40th with 23+ and 28+:
“I was nervous for my first World Cup competition. I’m very proud of my first route, while the second one was a bit rubbish.
“It’s super cool to have four climbers competing at the Olympic Games for Great Britain, I’m psyched to watch and support them. Generally, the awareness for Climbing in Great Britain has grown a lot over the past few years.”
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