Leaders Corner
IFSC World Cup
Innsbruck 2024
What They Said

In her first World Cup competition since April, the Slovenian star won her 17th Boulder World Cup medal, 44th in total.

The fourth stage of the IFSC World Cup Series 2024 takes place at the Kletterzentrum in Innsbruck, for the third Boulder and second Lead competitions of the season.

30/06 – Women’s Lead final

Janja Garnbret (SLO), first with the top:

“Every single win means a lot to me, because I’m always with my feet on the ground, I don’t take things for granted, I’m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every single time.

“It was a little tactical rest, on that last move, but I forgot what kind of hold it was behind the volume, and I couldn’t see it. The hold in my right hand felt a bit slippery, so I didn’t want to risk anything. My feet position also felt kind of weird, I needed to think about what to do, but luckily, I stuck and didn’t dryfire or anything.

“This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and take some time to rest, and then train until Paris 2024!”

30/06 – Men’s Lead final

Jakob Schubert (AUT), first with 49+:

“Climbing here at home is always different, it’s always special, and this route today was exceptionally special because it was such a crazy fight from halfway up. Every move I felt like I was going to fall. I might have not been the best climber on the route tonight, but I was the best fighter, and that’s what brought me to victory. And it was also only possible because of the crowd.

“I’m always really focused and don’t hear too much while I climb, I would say. I wouldn’t recognise which song was playing, but it was crazy loud when I made that move and I immediately knew that that was probably the victory. From there I felt like I could almost enjoy it… I mean, not really, because I was way too pumped.”

28/06 – Men's Boulder final

Amagasa Sohta (JPN), 1st with three tops and three zones:

“I can’t believe it, it feels like a dream! My performance today was very good, almost perfect. Now I will skip Lead and focus on the event in Prague. Arigato!”

28/06 – Men's Boulder semi-final

Elias Arriagada Krüger (GER), fourth with one top and four zones:

"I am over the moon. It's nothing I would have expected, but after training for it for so so many years, it finally happened. I trained a lot with the other strong guys, Yannick [Flohé], Alex [Megos], Jakob [Schubert], now I'm glad and extremely thankful that I made it."

27/06 – Women’s Boulder final

Janja Garnbret (SLO), 1st with four tops and four zones:

“I was a little bit stressed today, to be honest. First, I very much enjoyed the semi-final today, it was a hard round, the boulders were very hard, but this is what we train for. The final felt a little bit easier, I needed to stay focused until the end, and I’m happy that I managed to do it, I’m happy for the last boulder which was the hardest. It was a great test before Paris, I feel great.

“Youngsters are coming, I’m not that young anymore! It would be sad if no-one would be coming after me. I always try to stay focused and sharp to beat them.”

27/06 – Women’s Boulder semi-final

Fanny Gibert (FRA), fourth with one top and two zones

“I don’t know, it’s just crazy! I came back from so far. It’s been hard to keep believing in it. I like when the rounds are difficult, because they give you the chance to show your real abilities in one style, and your mental ability to stay focused until the end, never give up. That is my best skill, I guess. The aim for the final is to keep the same spirit, climb at my best, just like I did in qualification and semi-final.”

26/06 – Men’s Boulder qualification

Colin Duffy (USA), fifth with five top and five zones:

“I had a fun time on the boulders, Kind of physical style which I enjoy, and I think I was in a good headspace. I love Innsbruck, it is the site of my first Youth World Championships, one of my special moments. Every year it is a pleasure to visit and I’m excited to continue the competition.”

26/06 – Women’s Boulder qualification

Valentina Aguado (ARG), 73rd with zero tops and three zones:

“Qualification was not good for me. At this event especially, there are always a lot of athletes competing and the setting is always hard. At least I had fun on the mats today and went really close to top three of the boulders. It is not enough to say that it was a good round, but at least I’m enjoying the atmosphere of the World Cup in Innsbruck.

“I have been travelling a lot, I arrived in Europe at the beginning of the year, it’s been a long time since I’ve been in Argentina. I miss my family, and I miss my home a lot. I decided to take this challenge of trying to qualify for the Olympics, and I knew that my bast chance was to stay and train here in Europe, because Argentina is not the best place for training. I have been to France, Italy, now Austria, I have competed in China, in the United States, then again in China for the OQS, and Budapest. I will stay in Europe until September.”

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