ZHOU Yafei of China
CLIMBING ACTION KICKS OFF IN CHENGDU WITH SPEED QUALIFICATIONS

Speed finals line-up have been decided at The World Games Chengdu 2025.

Climbing events at The World Games Chengdu 2025 opened with an entertaining pair of Speed qualification rounds, selecting the top 16 men and top 16 women ahead of tonight’s finals. Margins were razor-thin on the wall, and the bracket is stacked with Olympic medallists, world record holders, and rising talents.

NURSAMSA TOP MEN'S QUALIFICATION TABLE

In the men’s field, Raharjati Nursamsa of Indonesia set the pace with a lightning-fast 4.93 seconds, followed by Long Jianguo of China in second at 4.98, and Yaroslav Tkach of Ukraine in third with 5.02. The cut time for the finals was 5.35, set by Beknur Altynbekov of Kazakhstan, just one hundredth of a second ahead of Ukraine’s Hryhorii Ilchyshyn, who placed 17th.

A headline Round of 16 clash awaits as world record holder and Paris 2024 bronze medallist Samuel Watson of the USA will face Paris 2024 gold medallist Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia, after they placed 11th and sixth respectively.

Watson said: “I’m currently dealing with an injury on my shoulder, I was on the phone with my physio up until 15 minutes ago, trying to figure out what the best option was, but I made it to final so we’re happy. Every competition is a good challenge, I’m looking forward to progressing tonight and have each lap go faster.”

For the men’s Speed complete results click here.

I’m currently dealing with an injury on my shoulder, I was on the phone with my physio up until 15 minutes ago, trying to figure out what the best option was.Samuel WATSON (USA)

CHINA DOMINATES WOMEN’S OPENING ROUND

Zhou Yafei of China claimed the top spot in women’s Speed qualifications with a time of 6.34 seconds. Reigning world champion Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia followed in second with 6.50, while Qin Yumei of China took third with 6.605, edging out teammate Deng Lijuan by just three thousandths of a second.

Kusuma Dewi said: “I have enjoyed qualification, but the wall was a bit slippery. It reminded me of the wall in Jakarta, even though the conditions are more similar to this year’s World Cup in Bali! Tonight I will focus on enjoying the final and finding the best performance.”

Host nation China placed all four of its climbers in the final round, with Zhou, Qin, Deng, and Zhang Shaoqin — the latter clocking 7.01 for eighth place.

Amanda Narda Mutia of Indonesia sealed the 16th and final spot with 7.45, while hear teammate Rajiah Sallsabillah missed out with 7.56.

For the women’s Speed complete results click here.

I have enjoyed qualification, but the wall was a bit slippery. It reminded me of the wall in Jakarta, even though the conditions are more similar to this year’s World Cup in Bali!Desak Made Rita KUSUMA DEWI (INA)

NEXT UP

The men’s and women’s Speed finals will take place tonight, starting from 17:30 (UTC+8:00). The rounds will be live streamed via The World Games Live platform.

News and updates about the event will be available on the IFSC website and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Threads, TikTok, X, YouTube, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Bilibili, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu.

The World Games Chengdu 2025
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