Boulder & Lead
Paris 2024
Olympic Games
Olympic Qualifier Series
Olympic Qualification

Shanghai, China is the first of two Olympic Qualifier Series events

Over the next five days Sport Climbing’s focus turns to Paris 2024 as the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) begins in Shanghai, China in the first of two events that will decide the fate of the attending Olympian wannabes.

As the IFSC World Cup circuit takes a short hiatus for the events in Shanghai and Budapest, Hungary on 20-23 June, by the time the World Cup returns in Innsbruck, Austria, the Paris 2024 line-ups will be complete for both Boulder & Lead and Speed.

Held at the Urban Park at the Huangpu riverside, the OQS kicked off with a vibrant and energetic welcome celebration with nods to the four sports in attendance – BMX freestyle, Breaking, Skateboarding, and Sport Climbing.

The OQS will feature 160 Climbers – 80 men and 80 women - from across the globe vying for the final Paris 2024 spots with 48 men and 48 women in the Boulder & Lead discipline and 32 men and 32 women in the Speed. A full list of participants can be found here

With points totals tallied from the two events, the chosen 12 men and 12 women from Boulder & Lead, and 7 men and 7 women from Speed will get their tickets to the summer showpiece at Budapest – but with Olympic country quotas in the mix, nothing is straightforward.

Some countries have already filled one of their possible two slots, so beating the world’s best international climbers may not be enough this time around, you may also also to beat your own teammates.

There’s intrigue and storylines running throughout the two disciplines and some big questions will be answered come Budapest.

Which of the last two men’s Speed world record holders – Indonesia’s Kiromal Katibin and Veddriq Leonardo - will miss out on the Games with Rahmad Adi Mulyono already claiming his spot from the Asian Qualifier?

Will it be either Poland’s Aleksandra or twin sister Natalia Kalucka who will join women’s Speed world record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw in Paris?

Who from the Japanese women’s Boulder & Lead team will be travelling to France with Mori Ai?

Can the fan favourite Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic book his spot in the men’s Boulder & Lead?

Can any of these climbers make it? These are just a few from what will be an intense and highly charged two events.

France’s Mickael Mawem will be hoping he can become a two-time Olympian and join his brother Bassa - who is already qualified in the men’s Speed – at the home Games, something which may bring a little pressure to the competition:

“It’s true that this competition comes with a certain stake,” said Mawem, “But, in reality, the pressure is there all the time, especially when you evolve within a nation with athletes as strong as the French.

“The best French athletes are among the best in the world. In this case, ok, I am the reigning Boulder world champion, but the Boulder & Lead is something else. To go to the Olympic Games, I only have one option: to be able, at the right time, to show the best version of myself. But giving your best is not easy. So, yes, there is some pressure.”

For many the wait has felt long for this chance, Serbia’s Stasa Gejo included: *“*The preparation for the OQS was long and very difficult in so many aspects. But as the competition approaches, the feeling has been rapidly improving, the body feels ready and steady, and I am getting very excited!”

The competition, and the excitement, begins with the men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead qualifications and all the action will be live on the Olympic Channel.

For the full schedule and links to watch click here

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