L/R: Alberto GINÉS LÓPEZ of Spain, LEE Dohyun of South Korea, Adam ONDRA of the Czech Republic
Boulder & Lead
Olympic Qualifier Series
Dohyun LEE

The 21-year-old paired a solid Boulder round with an explosive top on the Lead route, finishing ahead of Alberto Ginés López of Spain and Adam Ondra of Czechia.

The fourth and conclusive competition day of the Olympic Qualifier Series Shanghai 2024 opened with the men’s Boulder & Lead final.

In the Boulder phase, a set of four very hard problems set the stage for a low scoring round, with Czechia’s Adam Ondra taking provisional first place, followed by two of his younger rivals – Paul Jenft of France, second with 49.1, and Hamish McArthur of Great Britain with 48.8.

Kicking off his Lead climb with a tally of 34.5 points, Lee Dohyun of South Korea was one of the only two athletes who secured the final quickdraw and earned all 100 points, climbing on the highest step of the podium with 134.5 points and the golden trophy in his hands.

“Even though the Boulder results weren’t great, I wasn’t that affected. I was still confident in Lead because Lead is my main discipline. I just wanted to do what I could do but I didn’t believe I could top it,” said Lee.

“I didn’t feel any pressure, but I was surprised to top the climb. I am not very expressive, I am very calm normally, but today I was emotional. I trained a lot for this and I realised what it meant.

“This is the main reason why I am climbing. For Korea, Climbing is not that big so this will tell many people about Climbing.”

LEE Dohyun of South Korea

The second athlete topping the Lead route was Tokyo 2020 gold medallist Alberto Ginés López of Spain, who previously scored 24.5 points and took second position with 124.5.

Ondra eventually landed in third place with 124.1 points almost evenly distributed between the two phases: 64.0 on Boulder, 60.1 in Lead.

Just outside of the podium was Jenft, fourth with 113.1 points, while Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann made up for a disappointing Boulder score – 14.3 – with a great 96.1-point performance in Lead, placing fifth with 110.4.

Belgium’s Hannes Van Duysen concluded in sixth place with 94.6 points, with McArthur falling down to seventh with 93.9, and France’s Sam Avezou placing eighth with 9.8 points because of an unfortunate slip early on the Lead route.

For the men’s Boulder & Lead event complete results click here.

In the OQS ranking, Lee leads the table with 50 points, with Ginés López following in second place with 45, and Ondra taking third with 41.

For the men’s Boulder & Lead provisional standings click here.

The Olympic Qualifier Series is composed of two parts, the first one in Shanghai from 16 to 19 May, and the second one in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Every competition round at the OQS will be streamed live on Olympics.com. 

News and updates about the event will be available on the IFSC website and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, X, LinkedIn, YouTube, TikTok, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin and Weibo.

For a comprehensive list of quotes from the event click here.

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