In the final act of the Asian qualifier in Jakarta, Indonesia, China’s Deng Lijuan and Indonesia’s Rahmad Adi Mulyono booked their tickets to Paris 2024 winning the Speed competitions.

The biggest cheer of the night was surprisingly not a Final race, but after the men’s semi-finals as the home crowd at the Gelora Bung Karno knew they would be waving off one of their athletes to France next year.

Both Rahmad Adi Mulyono and Kiromal Katibin won their respective semi-final match-ups to set up the all Indonesian Final and guarantee a Paris 2024 ticket.

It was Adi Mulyono who was the eventual winner with a time of 5.35 as Katibin fell, a fall which would mean the former world record holder would have to settle for silver and try to qualify at next year’s Olympic Qualifier Series.

Adi Mulyono was a worthy winner coming through a close semi-final with China’s Wu Peng – 5.10 to Peng’s 5.18. He was also the only climber in the compeition to go under 5 seconds with a 4.99 in the quarter-final match against another teammate and current world record holder Leonardo Veddriq.

Adi Mulyono said: “I’m very happy and even more focussed now to get a medal in Paris. There was a lot of pressure here in front of a home crowd, but I tried to fight here for the Indonesian people and that gave me a little extra speed.”

Japan’s Omasa Ryo, who lost out in the semi-finals to Katibin, won the Small Final against Peng to secure himself a bronze medal and continue a medal podium run in 2023 in which he secured his country’s first ever World Cup medal.

Full men’s Speed results here In the women’s competition Deng looked up for the challenge right from the start. The Chinese climber was the fastest in qualification and showed her calm as competitors were falling around her.

Deng beat Jeong Jimin in the Final - Deng 6.98 v Jeong 8.46 – with the South Korean having to settle for silver but buoyed by a strong performance throughout.

Deng said: “It’s very exciting. I have been training and fighting all year and to finally get the ticket is a very exciting moment. I was a little nervous, especially when you get closer to the qualification match as everyone has very close times, maybe 00.1 or 2-seconds difference, so thankfully my hard work and performance paid off in some very competitive races.”

Both Deng and Jeong came through semi-finals against home climbers who had a constant wave of support from the crowd.

Rajiah Sallsabillah and Amanda Narda Mutia had to face-off in the Small Final for the bronze medal with Sallsabillah taking bronze with a time of 6.73 and taking advantage of a fall from her teammate.

Full women’s Speed results here


Deng and Adi Mulyono with their tickets to Paris 2024 Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC

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