Hear from the athletes at the Boulder competition taking place at the USA Climbing Training Center.
The IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA, opened with a strong field of competitor lined up and ready to battle for this year's third Boulder World Cup podiums. Here’s what some of the top-performing athletes had to say following each round.
MEN'S BOULDER FINAL
Anaraku Sorato of Japan – gold medallist:
“I’m so happy to win in Salt Lake City. To get three gold medals this year is amazing. I want to win a fourth medal, but I don’t want to think about it. I just want to think about one competition at a time and try to win in Prague [at the next IFSC Boulder World Cup].”
Amagasa Sohta of Japan – silver medallist:
“I’m happy. Obviously, the best is to get a gold, but I really enjoyed this competition.”
“After semi-final I was so happy to be in the final with Rei and enjoy it with him and all the other Japanese team. I got a lot of energy from that. I was excited, a good excitement.”
WOMEN'S BOULDER FINAL
Nakamura Mao of Japan – gold medallist:
“I can’t believe it. I’ve had many fourth places, and I can’t believe I have a medal. So many people were cheering for me, so I just tried to podium for them. I was just so excited. Thank you everyone.”
WOMEN'S BOULDER SEMI-FINAL
Zélia Avezou of France – 100 points, second:
“I feel I am climbing well, but semi-final climbing and final climbing is so different. I need to just continue to be confident in my climbing into the next round and hopefully I can get a medal.”
Nakamura Mao of Japan – 100 points, second:
“Getting 100pts is so cool, it’s so exciting for me. But now it’s the final and I really want to win a medal. I’ve been fourth three times; I want a medal his time.”
“It was so amazing, my climbing was so good. I thought it was a round that could have been done by everyone, it was more about who could do it within the five minutes.”
MEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION
Ardch Intrachupongse of Thailand – 84.4 points, 17th:
"Qualification was great, the climbs were quite difficult, but they were a lot of fun. There were a lot of very unique movements, like on the number three. It was a great round.
"You know, I'm very excited about this comp, the crowd looks great. There's a lot of people, the turnout is great. It's time to rest up, save my skin a little bit, and then fight on Sunday! I'm excited for it, the boulders are beautiful."
AJ Goldsmith of New Zealand, 10.0 points, 61st:
"I thought it was amazing, honestly. I didn't know what to expect when I walked into this, to climb one in four just feel unimaginable to me. I don't know what I could have done better on that. All the other climbs, I felt like it was in a realm of a possibility for me. Maybe if I worked it for quite a while...
"I've loved being at my first World Cup. I've met met so many people who are stronger than me. Coming from New Zealand, I don't get opportunities to climb with stronger people too often. So it's a big difference.
"I don't get starstruck too much. I've always been around big events and stuff. I used to do stunt work for movies and stuff, so I've met Tom Hanks and stuff."
WOMEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION
Nonaka Miho of Japan – 124.8 points, second:
“I think it was an easy round, and I wish I could have flashed all the boulders, but the last move on boulder number three was hard for me, It took a few tries to figure out the last coordination move.
"It’s been super busy since I’ve opened my gym. I haven’t had much time to train. But I’m trying so hard to make it happen. I just want to enjoy the comp here in Salt Lake City. I want to go to the final and I want to get the medal, of course, but at the same time I really want to enjoy competing here, because Salt Lake is one of my favorite World Cups through the season, and I skipped it last year because of the OQS, so I’m just happy to be here.”
Helen Gillett of the USA – 94.0 points, 18th:
"My qualification was energising, I definitely felt the hometown crowd and psych behind me. For me it was a big win because slab is usually my weakness, I feel like it's where I maybe fall short a little bit, and I was able to stay really composed on the first slab and get it done.
"I got zone on the last boulder, which was also a slab, and that zone is what put me into the semi-final. I'm really excited. Brazil was my first semi-final, and I was definitely feeling the pressure. I didn't feel very light-hearted, and I'm feeling much more present and ready to go here. So, yeah, I'm excited to throw it down and climb how I know I can."
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