IFSC WORLD CUP WUJIANG LEAD QUALIFICATION: WHAT THE ATHLETES SAID

22 September 2023

Qualification at IFSC World Cup Wujiang has given us the 26 climbers through to the semi-finals at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center, and we talk to some of the athletes for some competition thoughts.

Top five women

1. MORI Ai (JPN)2. Mia KRAMPL (SLO)3. TANII Natsuki (JPN)4. Vita LUKAN (SLO)5. KIM Jain (KOR)

Full women’s results can be found here Top five men

1. ANRAKU Sorato (JPN)1. HOMMA Taisei (JPN)3. OMATA Shion (JPN)4. Sascha LEHMANN (SUI) 5. YOSHIDA Satone (JPN)

Full men’s results can be found here WHAT THE ATHLETES SAID

Lucka RAKOVEC (SLO) – 22^nd in women’s Lead

“It wasn’t really that good. I made a lot of mistakes, especially on route two. I was really hesitant with my climbing. Unfortunately I didn’t do my best and I felt I should have done something else.

“I had two options in mind and maybe the other was better for me. I knew what to do, that one option suited my best, but other athletes told me the other option was better, so I thought fine and opted for that, but I really should have done what I thought.”

Aman VARMA (IND) – 27^th in men’s Lead – World Cup debut

“It was my very first World Cup and it was a great feeling. I am sure if I train harder I can get to a podium soon. I will definitely be better prepared for the next time now, but I had fun. I want to make semis, and if I can do that I will be very happy. My training hasn’t been great leading up to this, but now I have the experience of a World Cup I am confident for the next one.”

Sascha LEHMANN (SUI) – 4^th in men’s Lead

“It was a hard day. As always qualification was stressful. I should make it through to semi-finals but still you have to climb well. They were challenging routes, not super special in the movements but hard from the beginning which you have to deal with.

“I didn’t have the feeling I was looking for, especially in the second route I climbed. I made some mistakes and I missed some holds a little so not happy with my climbing on that route. For the semi-finals I just need to climb more precise and take my time to do the moves, and do them properly, and not just move onto the next hold.”