The first day is done in Jakarta, Indonesia, at the Asian qualifier where the men and women Boulder & Lead athletes have been in qualification action. There was a strong showing for Japan with three climbers in both the men’s and women’s top five.

Top five women

1 ITO Futaba (JPN) 172.4pts2 KUME Nonoha (JPN) 157.5pts3 NONAKA Miho (JPN) 156.8pts4 LUO Zhilu (CHN) 152.7pts5 ZHANG Yuetong (CHN) 152.6pts

Full women’s results here Top five men

1 ANRAKU Sorato (JPN) 174.8pts2 LEE Dohyun (KOR) 155.9pts3 OGATA Yoshiyuki (JPN) 144.7pts4 PAN Yufei (CHN) 138.7pts5 NARASAKI Meichi (JPN) 136.4pts

Full men’s results here WHAT THEY SAID:

Shivani CHARAK (IND) – 18th in women’s Boulder & Lead

“My qualification was ok. I tried to do my best, but I didn’t perform at my best. The Lead route was ok, but I fell quite early. Boulder was just ok for me also, but I have seen here what I need to do to improve, and I will go back to India and train on those things hard now. For this competition, hopefully my qualification was enough to make the semi-finals.”

OGATA Yoshiyuki (JPN) – 3rd in men’s Boulder & Lead

“It wasn’t my best performance I think because I made some little mistakes, but I think I’ve done enough to make the semi-finals tomorrow and I can try my best and do my best climbing.

“I need to recover for tomorrow as it’s really hot here and I got tired from today’s round. So I will shower, have dinner with my friends, relax and try to refocus my mind for tomorrow.”


OGATA Yoshiyuki (JPN) in Lead actionPhoto: Lena drapella/IFSC

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