The women ended a busy day of Boulder with qualification in Seoul
The standout performer in the women’s Boulder qualification at the IFSC Climbing World Championships was undoubtedly Japan’s Ito Futaba who scored a near perfect 149.9pts.
Of the 72 that started the competition, Ito leads the way into the semi-final sharing the top spot with Israel’s Tamar Cohen with the climbers split into two groups. It was Ito though who shined brightest.
Ito’s only blemish on her scorecard came on the very first boulder when she took two attempts to top, but form then on out it was flashes all the way to first position.
Five climbers topped all five boulders with Ito and Cohen sharing first and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret, France’s Oriane Bertone and Great Britain’s Emma Edwards all sharing third.
Team Japan takes the honours once more for the most climbers in the semi-final with Ito and Nonaka Miho in sixth position among five climbers through. France were one behind with four climbers through including Bertone and joint-23rd place Lily Abriat who is stepping up to the senior World Championships for the first time.
“It’s a lot different to the youth worlds,” said Abriat*, “Every time I was going there I was trying to win, whereas here it’s about the experience, have fun and do the best I can. It’s a different perspective.”*
Talking specifically about her qualification Abriat said: “It was good. I felt a bit tired though honestly, I don’t know if it was the heat or what, but it was a bit strange. The boulders were really cool. The physical ones were pretty hard, I think one I was supposed to do one, but the other was too hard. A little bit was just trying to get back into the circuit as it’s been a while.”
Joining Abriat in 23rd position were Slovenia’s Jennifer Buckley and USA’s Melina Costanza meaning there will be 25 in the semi-final instead of the usual 24.
One of those 25 is Belgium’s Chloe Caulier who was 17th thanks to some clean climbing: “My qualification was very good. I’m happy about my climbing because I didn’t make a lot of mistakes, and the ones I did I could change in the time I had on the mat.”
The semi-final will whittle 25 down to eight for the final, and Caulier is ready for the challenge: “Of course I have plans to change things to make the final. I have three days now and I will see how I use the three days. I will train tomorrow and focus mentally. I won’t train too long but also make sure I train enough as three days is a long time.”
For World Cups the rest days are either just that, a day, or sometimes even hours, but Caulier is prepared to adapt, now: “When I was younger I would have complained about the three days, but now with my experience I can handle every scenario. It’s just the mindset you fix before. I knew the schedule in advance so I was ready for it and I could plan it with my coaches.”
There will be home nation interest in the semi-final as once again Seo Chaehyun flies the South Korean flag progressing alongside Caulier in 17th.
Full women's Boulder qualification results can be found here
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