IFSC MEDICAL & ANTI-DOPING COMMISSION

The Medical & Anti-Doping Commission is established in the IFSC Statutes, Article 14.6.

The Medical & Anti-Doping Commission shall protect and maintain the standards of the health of the athletes and of Climbing as a safe sport. It shall address issues impacting the health of athletes and make recommendations to define the medical regulations for the safe running of IFSC events.

The Medical & Anti-Doping Commission shall ensure that the IFSC complies with the World Anti-Doping Code (WADC) and implement programmes for the promotion of clean sport.

The composition and functioning of the Medical & Anti-Doping Commission are described in the relevant Terms of Reference approved by the Executive Board.

NAMEPOSITIONPRESENTING NF
Katie KAMINSKYMemberAustralia
Dr Gabriel ISFER DE LIMAMemberBrazil
Dr Daniel VON ESSENMemberGermany
Dr Shabnam ASADIMemberIran
Prof. Naama CONSTANTINIMemberIsrael
Dr Andrea FELICIMemberItaly
TANABE KojiMemberJapan
Maria IONELMemberRomania
Dr Cesar CANALESMemberSpain
Dr Karen HALSELLMemberUSA

ACTIVITIES AND TASKS OF THE IFSC MEDICAL & ANTI-DOPING COMMISSION

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR STANDARDS OF PHYSICAL EXAMINATION

  • Sports medical examination (morphology climbing: including weight, height, BMI, plicometry [body fat], flexibility, for adolescents: percentile)
  • Standard laboratory test
  • ECG (12 channels)
  • Spiroergometry (bicycle or step test)
  • Echocariography (yearly)
  • Orthopedical examination (joints, posture, muscular dysbalance)
  • Further examinations (X-ray, MRI, etc.) as medically necessary
  • Medical examinations should be once per year
  • Information about healthy nutrition and psychological support (if necessary)
  • Recommendations of necessary vaccinations

ANALYSING INJURY REPORTS AT THE IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES

CONDUCTING SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH WITHIN SPORT CLIMBING

CONTROLLING THE PREVENTION SYSTEM IN FAVOUR OF ATHLETES' HEALTH

VULNERABLE AGE OF EPIPHYSEAL INJURIES IN THE AGE GROUP OF 13-15

        - High incidence of epiphyseal fractures in the age group 13 to 15.

        - Examined are growth factors, growth spurts and onset of epiphyseal fractures.

        - Precautions need to be instigated, prophylaxis increased. While campus board exercises are known to be one risk factor for epiphyseal fractures in young climbers, others still need to be detected.

Of the 22 injured fingers, 95% concerned the middle finger; in 64.3% the crimp grip led to the injury and was the preferred handhold (71.4%). Half of the injuries occurred during bouldering competitions. They were in average 14.1 years of age and all within the year of their peak velocity growth.

The climbing community started reporting epiphyseal stress fractures in the fingers in 1997. As a consequence of repetitive loading of the fingers the fractures observed were always in the proximal interphalangeal joint. Most often they were fractures of the Salter Harris III type with a fracture through the epiphysis of the middle phalanx. Within the short period of time (24 years) a total of 65 epiphyseal fractures of the fingers have been reported in climbers representing the highest rate of this injury so far in any sport.

All subjects were within a year of the first signs of puberty and within their pubertal growth spurt, a time when the growth plate is especially vulnerable for injuries.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TRAINERS AND COACHES REFERRING ADOLESCENT CLIMBERS WITH INCIDENCE OF EPIPHYSEAL FRACTURES

  • Inform and educate the personnel around athletes

         - Especially those aged 13-15 (around category Youth B), which is a vulnerable age for epiphyseal fractures.

  • Be aware of signs

         - Finger pain during and particularly after climbing, almost always at the dorsal aspect of the finger middle joint

         - Finger joint swellings

         - Growth spurt

  • Signs consequences

         - Stop training and get a medical evaluation (8-12weeks); inform athlete (personal doctor, parents, National Federation)

         - As appropriate, arrange MRT, X-ray

         - If epiphyseal fracture: break in training and appropriate treatment, otherwise the fracture will not heal and a permanent disability of the finger will result

  • Adaption

         - No campus board exercise (especially no crimps)

         - Change the training to technical skills

         - Consider the overall time and number of competitions and exercises (consider regeneration time)

  • Notice

         - Growth spurt exerts a high stress on the body with reduced ability of regeneration

         - Without regeneration no trainings effect

BLOOD ON THE FIELD OF PLAY

During Bouldering competitions,  especially in the finals of the youth events, you often find open skin injuries. Questions have therefore arisen as to whether there is a possible transfer risk of contagious diseases (e.g. HIV, Hep. B and C, etc.).

  • Risk of Transmission of Blood Borne Infections in Climbing (2011) - Schöffl; Morrison; Küpper. *Conclusion: The risk of blood to blood transmission is rather low but existing. Athletes can NOT compete with bleeding wounds. Blood on the holds must be removed. A recommendation has been made for judges regarding blood on the filed of play. *

ADDRESSING ACTUAL ISSUES IN CONSIDERATION OF HEALTH

GRAVITATIONAL SPORTS, BODY FAT, RELATIVE ENERGY DEFICIENCY IN SPORTS (REDs)

  • Athletes with extremely low percentage of body fat, insufficient bone mineral density and other medical signs are becoming common issues in many sports - especially in weight sensitive sports. Climbing refers to the group of gravitational sports.
  • Athletes may use methods to reduce mass in order to gain a competitive advantage. Body fat may act as ballast, but adipose tissue is a vital endocrine organ in terms of general health. Excessive dieting can lead to serious medical problems and eating disorders (anorexia) with a poor prognosis.
  • The syndrome of “Relative energy deficiency” (RED-S) refers to the deficiency of food intake (the daily supply of energy) to the energy needed in sports. The consequences are impaired physiological functions including, but not limited to, metabolic rate, menstrual function, bone health, immunity, protein synthesis, cardiovascular health caused by relative energy deficiency.

FROM DISORDERED EATING TO EATING DISORDER

  • Disordered eating (DE) continuum starts with an appropriate eating and exercise behaviours, including healthy dieting and the occasional use of more extreme weight loss methods such as short-term restrictive diets.
  • The continuum ends with clinical Eating Disorders (ED´s), abnormal eating behaviours, distorted body image, weight fluctuations, medical complications and variable athletic performance.
  • These EDs have many features in common, and athletes frequently move among them.
  • The pathogenesis of EDs is multifactorial with cultural, familial, individual and genetic/biochemical factors playing roles.
  • Factors specific to sport are dieting to enhance performance, personality factors, pressure to lose weight, frequent weight cycling, early start of sport-specific training, overtraining, recurrent and non-healing injuries, inappropriate coaching behaviour and regulations in some sports have been suggested.
  • The prevalence differs significantly among sports (13 - 20% female and 3 - 8% male).

DEFINING MEDICAL RULES FOR INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS

Field of Play (FoP) Medical Team

  • During competition
  • During training

Minimum facilities and services available

  • Room in the vicinity of the FoP
  • At the venue

Equipment and typical situation for Sport Climbing

  • Overall
  • Bouldering

ADDRESSING OTHER ISSUES

BEATING THE HEAT DURING THE OLYMPIC GAMES TOKYO 2020

  • Tips for heat acclimatisation, hydration plan, cooling strategies, etc.
  • For further information, click here.

ACCIDENT ANALYSIS ON THE BOULDER MAT

Chalk bags, clothes and other personal athlete belongings below the boulders, which may cause injuries by athletes falling onto them and twisting knees and ankles.

Reccommendation: At the technical meeting this should be brought to the attention of the coaches, who should then transmit the information to the athletes.

POWDERED MAGNESIA

There are currently no existing studies on medical concerns regarding chalk. As magnesium carbonate is in general a nutrient the substance itself is harmless, though nevertheless theoretically a risk through fine dust exposition may be possible. Overall, good ventilation for gyms and airflow are recommended. Further studies are still necessary, but pending.

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