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2010-08-30 14:23
Usobiaga and Jain gold in lead, Zhong and He triumph in speed
Halfway through the Lead WC 2010 Patxi and Kim hold the first place in the WC ranking lead, Kokorin and Alekseeva are well ahead in speed with one event left
It's not a surprise that the small Kim Jain (KOR) triumphed at the event in Chuncheon, as in 2010 she won every competition she took part in, and no doubt she was galvanized by the home audience; the French Caroline Ciavaldini and the Austrian Angela Eiter could not equal her top in the semi, and fell way below her in the finals.
Patxi Usobiaga (ESP) made it back on the first step of the podium after his debut with a second place in Chamonix and an unsatisfactory performance in Xining; although his teammate Ramonet (Ramon Julian Puigblanque, ESP) climbed higher in the semis, Patxi ran headlong in the last round, winning his first gold medal this year. Third, the Japanese Amma Sachi.
The Chinese He Cuilian and the Russian Ksenia Alekseeva won respectively gold and silver in the women's speed event, with Pan Quhua getting bronze.
The men's competition was won by the world record holder Zhong Qixin, who climbed in 6.52 with Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky (RUS) and Libor Hroza (CZE) respectively second and third.
2010-08-27 17:55
NEW Starting order in Speed on European Championships
The organiser of Speed ECH and the officials on the ECH in Speed proposed the following change in the Speed starting order which was approved by the IFSC Europe Board.
As already tested in Val Daone IFSC Speed WC, and appreciated by the athletes, the Speed qualification would run as in lead.
An example with 30 starter:
Route left: Nr 1 to Nr 15; Route right: Nr 16 to Nr 30
Route left: Nr 16 to Nr 30; Route right: Nr 1 to Nr 15
The advantages of this starting order: The competitor have more rest time between the 1st and 2nd route, and the qualification round will need less time overall.
See you on European Championships in Austria
2010-08-22 20:39
Chloé Graftiaux dies on Mont Blanc
The boulder champion has lost her life on the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
Chloé Graftiaux, 23, fell to her death on August 21st, at around 18:45, descending the normal route of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, after climbing the South Ridge.
To her family, the sincere condolences of the IFSC family.
The mourner will take place on Wednesday 25th at 10.30, Aussois en Maurienne, France.
If you want to say goodbye to Chloé from a distance, you can leave a word on her website at www.chloegraftiaux.com.
Chloé: we will miss you…
2010-08-16 11:23
Second EYC 2010 in Vienna
The ÖWK and "Die Naturfreunde" organised a very good European Youth Cup in Vienna. 225 youth athletes from 18 countries travelled to Austria's capitol and competed in this last comp before the Youth World Championships 2010.
The big Naturfeunde climbing gym in Vienna is a very good place to hold a European Youth Cup. The second edition saw 225 athletes competing, coming from 18 countries. The Youth B female was won by German Hannah Bähr. The male Youth B winner is the French Goeffray de Flaugergues.
Youth A female was dominated by the Austrian girls, taking all three podiums. The winner is Magdalena Röck. The Youth A male is dominated by the young German Alexander Megos, now winning his 7th EYC in a row!
Yunior female winner is the Russin Dinara Fakhritdinova, while the male Junior winner is another German: Jan Hojer.
Three gold medals go to Germany, one each to Austria, France and Russia.
Team ranking winner is the German Team. Second Austria, before Slovenija and France.
From 9-12th of September the Youth World Championships will take place in Edinburgh.
The next stage of EYC will be on 2-3rd of October in Veliko Tarnovo (Bulgaria).
2010-08-14 11:15
Summer Holidays
The IFSC Office closes for summer holidays
The IFSC Office is closed from Friday 13 August until Monday 23 August, 2010, for summer holidays.
2010-08-02 12:03
Speed Record Validated
Zhong Qixin's new record validated by the IFSC EB
The IFSC Executive Board has validated the record set by the Chines Zhong Qixin at the World Championship Pre-event in Arco, on Friday 16th.
Zhong broke with an astonishing 6.47 seconds on the 15 metres lane the former record he himself had set in the World Championship 2009 (6.64).
The record could not be validated during the competition due a technical problem.
2010-08-01 22:56
Ondra and Noguchi take it all
With the victory in the last event of the Bouldering WC, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) win the IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2010
Akiyo may be used to it, but for Adam Ondra this is the first time; the Japanese and the Czech athletes grab the 2010 World Cup with the victory of the last event in Munich on Friday and Saturday.
Adam Ondra ensured his primacy first by topping all boulders in the semis and then sending 3 in the final round. Second and third on the podium the Russians Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Victor Kozlov, while the Austrian Kilian Fischhuber, fourth in the competition, was not able to keep his advantage on Ondra in the WC ranking.
The Japanese Noguchi, already winner of the WC 2009, confirmed her supremacy with her last success in Munich. While Anna Stohr (AUT) seemed well on her way in the semis, having topped all 4 boulders in less tries than Akiyo, the situation was reverted in the finals, where Akiyo won for one attempt less. Third on the podium the Russian Anna Galliamova.
Complete results and WC rankings in the corresponding sections of the IFSC website
2010-07-27 16:13
Provisional Calendar 2011
The list of 2011 events now complete with the exact dates
After publishing a rough version of the Provisional Calendar 2011, the IFSC SD has finalized the exact dates of all events.
Download the Provisional IFSC Calendar 2011
2010-07-24 18:53
New records on Speed Rock Dam in Val Daone
Italian Sara Morandi and the Russian Stanislav Kokorin beat the dam records in this classic format speed competition
The 10th edition of Speedrock, the IFSC Speed World Cup in Val Daone, started right in qualifications with a new record in the classic speed format by the Russian Stanislav Kokorin, who raced up in 13.74 seconds. He could not beat his record in the following runs, but he kept the head of the competition and won the gold medal, followed by Lukasz Swirk (POL) and Sergey Sinitsyn (RUS).
The Italian Sara Morandi beat the record in the women's category, climbing the route in 21.65. With an unfortunate fall in the final run, she nevertheless handed the victory over to Edyta Ropek (POL). Sara kept her second place in front ahead of Olena Ryepko (UKR).
The event was paired with the Paraclimbing cup event, organized by FASI, with fifteen athletes taking part.
2010-07-23 11:30
Latest Updates on Munich BWC - Webcasting
Webcasting info and changes in the schedule and more details on the registration/technical meeting and parking
Live webcast: Live webcast of the finals and semi-finals on Saturday 31 July at http://www.boulder-worldcup-2010.de/template_loader.php?tplpage_id=26Schedule The schedule for the competition has slightly changed: there will be only one group for the women in the qualification on Friday, which will start half an hour earlier than announced on the first info sheet (now scheduled at 16:00).
The maximum isolation time for the final on Saturday has been reduced to 90 mns (closing time isolation now scheduled at 17:30, start final/presentation of the finalists at 19:00) - this is the minimum time span that can be handled with four routesetters in case there are any problems or modifications with setting the boulders for the final.
Registration/Technical Meeting & Parking For the registration/ technical meeting please enter the Stadium area (Spiridon Louis Ring) via the entrance coming from Lerchenauer Straße. If you arrive by car, stop at the gate/ barrier. You will be allowed to pass if you say that you want to get to the Boulder World Cup registration. At the registration you will get a parking pass for the next two days.
For Parking, please follow the Spiridon Lois Ring and take a right just before a bridge to parking area "Block 20" (follow signs "Team Parking IFSC Boulder World Cup"). From here, head back for the Spiridon Lois Ring, take a right under the bridge and follow the street to the stadium VIP entrance to the left. See also the parking plan here.
For all the other details concerning the competition please click here.
2010-07-16 12:41
Provisional Calendar 2011
The IFSC EB has approved the provisional list of events 2011. The provisional calendar complete with exact dates to be ready soon.
2011 will be an extremely rich year for IFSC WC competitions. After consultation with the Athletes Commission and the Sport Department, the IFSC Executive Board gathered in Torino last week end approved the provisional calendar, with 13 Lead , 9 Boulder and 6 Speed Events.
The Sport Department will announce the exact dates soon, and the final calendar will be published on September 15th.
For general information and to anticipate the National Federations and Teams' needs, we hereby publish the provisional list approved by the IFSC EB, reminding that the events still have to be confirmed. Download the Provisional IFSC Calendar 2011
2010-07-15 16:19
The Rockmaster 2010 is ready to go
The athletes are arriving for the Arco Rockmaster 2010 Pre-Event and the timetable is confirmed. Watch the streaming on www.ifsc-climbing.org!
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Friday 16 July |
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8.00 |
Boulder Female qualification rounds |
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11.30 |
Boulder Male qualification rounds |
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12.00 |
Speed Female Qualification rounds |
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14.00 |
Speed Male Qualification rounds |
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16.30 |
Lead Male / Female Qualification |
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21.30 |
Speed Male / Female Finals |
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Saturday 18 July |
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9.00 |
BoulderFemale Semifinal |
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12.30 |
Lead male / female Semifinal |
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16.15 |
Bouldermale Semifinal |
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19.00 |
Team Speed Qualification |
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19.45 |
Team Speed Finals |
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21.15 |
Lead Female Final |
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22.00 |
Lead Male Final |
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Sunday 18 July |
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10.00 |
Bouldermale Final |
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13.00 |
Boulderfemale final |
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15.30 |
Duel competition |
2010-07-14 18:38
Alekseeva, Durif, Hroza and Puiplanque are the winner of Chamonix
The Place du Mont Blanc a fabuolous setting for the Speed and Lead finals in Chamonix
The first event of the Lead WC 2010 awarded a gold medal to the home athlete Charlotte Durif and to the Spanish Ramon Julian Puigblanque, the only climber to top the men's route by Patxi Arocena.
An incredible crowd was gathered in the new location in the Place du Mont-Blanc, where the mountain's snowy profile made a wonderful setting for such an exciting competition.
The French team also won a second place in the women's lead, with Helene Janicot awarded the silver medal, while Maja Vidmar (SLO) paid with a third place some mistakes in the semi-finals.
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (ESP) stepped on the podium with his teammate Ramonet, having fallen just a few holds before him, while Jorg Verhoeven was awarded the bronze medal.
The Russian Alexseeva grabbed gold in Speed, followed by the Polish Edyta Ropek, while in the men's category Libor Hroza (CZE) made it on Sergey Sinitsyn (RUS) who fell during the last round.
The highlights of the finals will soon be available on www.youtube.com/ifscchannel!
The first Lead World Cup starts with French (Durif) and Spain (Puiplanque) on the podium. The new area of the this year World Cup in Chamonix overcrowed and made the finale to a great event for competitors and visitors.
2010-07-05 19:35
Graftiaux and Ondra winners in Sheffield
At the last but one Bouldering WC Graftiaux and Ondra are closer to the crown
Topping all boulders in the least number of tries, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Chloé Graftiaux (BEL) have brought home the victory In Sheffield: a victory that has brought Chloé at the top of the WC ranking, ahead of Anna Stohr, and Adam very close to the Kilian Fiscchuber (AUT) who still holds his first position in the WC Ranking despite not qualifying for the finals in Sheffield.
3 women finalists topped all boulders in the finals, while only two men sent all of their problems. In the women's category, the American Alex Johnson and the Japanese Akiyo Noguchi won respectively silver and bronze, topping all 4 boulders, while in the men's category Cedric Lachat (SUI) was the only one - besides Ondra - to send all problems, ranking thus second, with Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR) in third position.
The IFSC Bouldering WC will be bach with the last competition in Munich, 30-31 July. Stay tuned!
2010-07-01 17:27
Last updates on Arco Rock Master
Updates on prizes and participation rules
The Arco Organizing Committe announces two major updates on the Arco Rock Master 2010, which will take place on July 15-18:
- prizes for the combined ranking - the winners of the combined ranking will be awarded medals and trophies, but no prize money will be given;
- participation - the reigning Youth World Champions (males and females) have the right to participate, provided that they are in the age range required.
2010-06-27 03:05
Great show in the IFSC Boulder WC Final in Eindhoven
Stoehr and Sharafutdinov are the winners, while Russia triumphs the Team Ranking.
Anna Stoehr topped seven out of the eight final problems, and gained her victory in front of a fantastic public. With her, also Juliane Wurm and Melissa Le Neve took the podium.
Dmitry Sharafutdinov could top the first 3 problems and won the gold medal, immediately followed by Sean McColl and Kilian Fischhuber.
After the perfect final everybody was ready for the party!
Many thanks to the NKBV for organizing this great event.
2010-06-23 15:17
Celebrating the Olympic Day
On June 23 "the Olympic Day spreads Olympic values worldwide"
The IFSC President Marco Scolaris is today in Lausanne to attend the celebrations of the Olympic Day. In the last two decades, the Olympic Day has celebrated sports worldwide, promoting the Olympic values with runs, exhibitions, music and educational seminars.
The Olympic day was introduced as a symbolic anniversary in 1948 to celebrate the birth of the modern Olympic Games on June 23, 1894, at the Sorbonne in Paris.
Associated over the last 20 years with Olympic runs, the Olympic Day has registered an ever increasing participation, from 45 attending National Federations in the first edition, to the present 200 NOC.
2010-06-22 15:41
Updates on BWC in Sheffield
Updates on the timetable and on the venue for the registration and technical meeting
The organisers of the Sheffield BWC have made some changes to the competition's timetable. Furthermore, the venue for the Registration and the Technical Meeting has been announced.
For more information and details, please read the info sheet clicking here.
2010-06-21 19:19
Final results of the Bouldering and Speed World Cup in Moscow, Russia
Stohr and Ondra win in Bouldering, Levochkina and Kokorin triumph in Speed
After a dull start of the season, the Austrian Anna Stohr seems to have regained her drive, first with a second place in Vail, and now with a gold medal in Moscow, in front of the Belgian Chloé Graftiaux, beaten for one bonus less in the final round. Third place for the Korean Kim Jain. The Japanese Noguchi slips off the podium, but holds the second place in the WC Ranking. First in the WC Ranking is now Graftiaux, and third Stohr.
The Czech Adam Ondra finally makes it and wins in the men's category, with 4 tops in the semifinals and 2 in the final. Hori Tsukuru (JPN) is second, with 1 top, while Kilian Fischhuber after his great start of season, is only third, with one top and one attempt more than the Japanese. Anyway, Kilian's first position in the WC ranking is quite steady, while Ondra and Hori follow respectively in the second and third position.
The men's podium in Speed belongs to Russia with Stanislav Kokorin (14.03) and Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky (14.57) in first and second position, and to Ukraine, thanks to Maxim Osipov in third position. Kokorin and Vaytsekhovsky now share the first place in the WC ranking, followed by Osipov.
The women's podium is all- Russian, with Yuliya Levochkina winning gold, Olga Evstigneeva silver and maria Krasavina winning bronze. Levochkina also leads the WC ranking, in front of Ksenia Alexeeva (RUS) and Evstigneeva.
2010-06-14 16:08
Free accommodation at the Rock Master in Arco
The Organizing Committee will offer free accommodation for 2 athletes per National Team
The Organizing Commitee of the Arco Rock Master - pre-event of the 2011 World Championship - will offer free accommodation for 2 athletes per each team, for 3 nights (Bed&Breakfast, double or triple room). It is necessary to register on the IFSC website before June 26, and to make the booking thorugh the Rivatour Agency (info@rivatour.it - 0039 464570370).
The Arco Rock Master 2010, as test event of the 2011 World Championship, is an open competition; each nation can register 2 athletes per discipline per category, according to normal WC rules. Registration is not subject to invitation.
The competition will also be an important test for the new discipline, Team Speed Relay, where each team shall be a mixed team of 3 climbers.
The event will be broadcast by the Italian television, and webcast by the IFSC.
For any information, please contact the IFSC Office at office@ifsc-climbing.org
2010-06-08 19:07
400 at the Rock Junior in Arco
More than 400 young climbers from 20 different countries at the Arco Rock Junior
Arco hosted last weekend the ninth edition of the Rock Junior, where the yellow t-shirts of the young athletes have litterally "flowered" the Climbing Stadium. The youth from 7 to 13 years have competed during two days in the categories of lead, boulder and speed. Slovenia and Austria won each two gold medals in the combined rankings, while Usa and Serbia won one each.
More than 150 youth have participated in the Kid's Rock, the game-competition for those who have just started, while 60 couples have competed in the classic Family Rock, the relay where each team is composed by parents and sons.
The skills of the organizers - ASD Rockmaster and ASD Arcoclimbing - have added to the renown Arco landscape the pleasure of sport and that of playing together, offering to the kids a great time of learning and enjoyment.
2010-06-06 23:03
The EYS season starts with 217 competitors from 23 federations
Imst hosted the first EYS 2010: Austria won three gold medals, Germany two and Russia one.
After two qualification rounds on Saturday 5th June, the ten best competitors of each category were qualified for the Final on Sunday.
Though the routes were very hard for the competitors, they were highly interesting for the spectators. The winners were three times from Austria, twice from Germany and once from Russia. the Austrian team won the team ranking, too, followed by France and Slovenia.
2010-06-06 02:27
Finalists in Vail - updated after final
3 World Cups in 3 years in the USA and 3 American golds.
In front of a very large and very enthusiastic crowd the gold medals were taken by Daniel Woods (USA) and Chloe Graftiaux (BEL) - it was the first World Cup gold medals for both of them.
Daniel won relatively easily with 2 tops and 2 very near completions - when Daniel (last man out) held the dyno on boulder 4 and oh so nearly hit the finishing jug the crowd went wild. Japan's Tsukuru Hori and Austria's Kilian Fischhuber took silver and bronze respectively.
The women's final was very closely fought with 5 of the finalists topping out on 3 of the 4 boulders. Chloe's flash of the first 3 boulders was enough to give her victory with Anna Stohr (AUT) taking silver and Juliane Wurm (GER) taking bronze - this was Juliane's first podium finish.
Congratulations to USA Climbing for an excellent event and we move onto Moscow in a little under 2 weeks for the next round.
Original Post
The 12 finalists are in isolation preparing for the final at 3.45pm Mountain Time
The men see local climber Daniel Woods qualify in first place with 4 tops in 5, Daniel was the only climber to top all 4 problems. He is joined in the final by Jernej Kruder (SLO), Francois Kaiser (FRA), reigning World Cup Champion Kilian Fischhuber (AUT), Tsukuru Hori (JPN) and veteran competitor Wouter Jongeneelen (NED)
The women's semi final was tough and all the finalists needed to top all 4 of the boulders. Two climbers flashed them all - Anna Stohr (AUT) & Maud Ansade (FRA). They are joined in the final by Chloe Graftiaux (BEL), Juliane Worm (GER) and locals Alexs Puccio & Johnson.
Webcasting for the finals, which start at 1545 local time (2345 CET), is available via Rock + Ice or try here
2010-06-05 11:04
Vail Bouldering World Cup - update #2
Qualification is over. The 40 semi finalists passed a stern test set by Manu Hassler, IFSC Chief Routesetter and his team.
Wow, that was hard work for the climbers. One boulder in two attempts for the men and two boulders in five attempts for the women was what was needed to qualify for the semi final.
It was an interesting qualification with a few surprises thrown in along the way. And some interesting results - Magnus Mitboe (NOR) took an incredible 15 attempts on Boulder #5 to top out with 1 second left.
So tomorrow will see some interesting battles. Will Kilian be able to continue his domainace or will the likes of Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods (both USA) or Jernej Kruder (SLO) upset the applecart. Will Anna or Akiyo be able to hold off the very strong challenge from the Alexs (Puccio & Johnson, both USA).
Hopefully you will be able to catch some of the action here.
2010-06-04 12:57
IFSC Live webcast on the Sports Hub
Snapshots from Vienna available on the IFSC channel on YouTube (www.youtube.com/ifscchannel)
Watch some shots from the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vienna, Austria, on the IFSC Channel (www.youtube.com/ifscchannel)!
You can watch in streaming or download the full Finals on www.247.tv/climbing, where the full videos of all IFSC live webcast will be available from now on.
The schedule for 2010 events is:
Eindhoven (June 25&26) - Sheffield (July 3&4) - Chamonix (July 12&13) - Arco (July 16-18)European Championship (September 14&18)
For any information contact video@ifsc-climbing.org
2010-06-03 21:07
Vail Bouldering World Cup - update #1
Live Feed from Vail
We are glad to announce that there will be a live web feed from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail.
Rock and Ice, Teva Mountain Games partner, will be hosting a live feed via their website. Click here to go to the webcast. The webcast is an experiment and uses only a single camera and is more of a live video blog than a full scale production. So sit back and enjoy. Female qualification starts at 09.00 Mountain time (-8 hours CET)
Preparations are nearly complete for the 3rd edition of the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado USA
91 athletes have registered with large contingents from all across Pan America. They will be competing in front of crowds estimated to be in excess of 25,000 people over the two days.
Qualification starts tomorrow. Stay tuned.
2010-06-02 23:26
Boulder at the Austrian Olympic School
Boulder was the protagonist of an official Olympic School Competition in Austria
The Austrian Minister of Education and Minister for Sport welcomed Boulder in an official competition of the Austrian Olympic School (Schul Olympics).
From May 31st to June 2nd, the three winning teams of seven regional Championships were invited by the Austrian Government to the National Championship. The event was organized by the Austrian Alpine Club - Section Imst, together with the Sport School for Climbing and Mountaineering of Imst, placed at Kletterhalle Imst.
It was a team competition, where each team consisted of four athletes. Each of them had to climb a boulder in 90 seconds. They could try each problem as many times as they managed to within such limit of time, and each hold counted as a factor. There were four problems for each competitor.
The event started with the opening ceremony on May 31st. The competition was held the following day, which ended with the prize-giving and closing ceremony in the evening. On June 2nd the competitors came back home.
The winners were:
- category 10-12 years: Imst Sport School
- category 13-14 years: Imst Sport School
- category 15-17 years: Wien Secondary School
For more details, please click on: www.schul-olympics.at or www.kletterhalle.com.
2010-05-29 16:03
Finals day in Vienna
Kilian triumphs at home, Akiyo wins gold on a all Asian female podium
Kilian Fischhuber probably felt he had made it when he topped the third boulder, an intriguing traverse with a no foot move face to the public, but the battle was tough indeed, and the boulders too, since nr. 2 and 4 saw no top at all, and Adam Ondra is proving a fierce match also in bouldering. But Kilian's mastery of technique and force, as well as his experience, have so far kept Adam at bay, and this competition in Wien was no exception. Third on the podium the Russian Alexey Rubtsov.
The women's final run ended up with an all Asian podium, with Akiyo Noguchi topping 2 out of 4 in the lowest number of tries, and her young team mate Momoka Oda following closely in her steps, for her first podium in what was her debut at the World Cup. Third the Korean Kim Jain.
Report after the Semi-final
In the men boulder no. 4 proved to be the key with only 3 tops in total. Kilian's top made the difference between him and Adam to secure first place in the semi final. Stewart Watson (GBR) qualified in 3rd for his first BWC final.Tsukuru Hori climbed very well to be the only Japanese in the final. Matthias Muller (SUI) & reigning World Bouldering Champion Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) are the other finalists.
In the women the competition was fierce with 4 climbers completing all 4 boulders. Anna Stohr (AUT) led the way with 4 in 5 attempts closely followed by the 2 Japanese, Akiyo Noguchi, the current World Cup Champion, and the young Momoka Oda (only 16) in her first World Cup. Korean Jain Kim also topped all 4 boulders. Chloe Graftiaux (BEL) and Alex Johnson (USA), winner of the first BWC of the year in Switzerland, are the other finalists.
2010-05-26 13:58
Get ready for the live webcast of the BWC in Wien!
The second event of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup goes live on Friday and Saturday
The IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Wien will be webcast live from the Qualifications on Friday (men:10.00, women 17.00 or 19.30 pm) to Semi (12.30) and Finals (19.30) on Saturday.
Click here to connect to the free live webcast follow the link on the IFSC home page!
2010-05-25 22:38
128 under 14 competitors from18 federation where in Imst for the YCCF
The category 10/11 years climbed 10 routes and the older (12/13 years) 9 routes in 2 day´s.
The weather was perfect for this under 14 competition. Not only the gym in Imst was crowed, also the playground around made the YCCF (Youth Color Climbing Festival) to a real meeting point of youth climber.
In children female goes gold to Gieringer Anna (AUT) in children male to Posch Mathias (AUT).
Pupil female gold goes to Serbian Gejo Stasa and in male category Posch Jan Luca (AUT) wins gold.
2010-05-24 20:08
Record turn-out for Vienna?
136 climbers are registered to start at the BWC in Vienna starting on Friday. If they all turn up this will be a record for a BWC.
The BWC 2008 in Hall had 135 climbers so Austria looks all set to break their own record for participation in a Boulder World Cup.
Just a quick reminder to all of the Teams that attendance and confirmation of pre-registration before the Technical Meeting is compulsory. Please do not be late.
2010-05-20 19:28
Results of the Pan-American Championship in Quito, Ecuador
First ever calendar Championship for the Pan-American Council
The Pan-American Championship closed in Quito, Ecuador, as a great success in terms of participation and as an entertaining show.
The hosting Federation, FEDAN, won 3 bronzes with Estefania Mesias in Lead and Katherine Alvarez and Andres Quinteros in Speed; USA Clibimbing seized the gold in Lead Women with Sasha Digiulian and in Bouldering Women with Francesca Metcalf. Mexico and Brazil gained their only medal respectively with Mauricio Huerta who won gold in Lead Men, and Cesar Grosso - gold - in Bouldering Men. The Chilean Jesus Gonzalez managed it to the second place both in Lead Men and in Bouldering. Venezuela grabbed 8 medals, winning gold with Lucelia Blanco in Speed Women (second her team mate Francis Guillen) and with Josmar Nieves in Speed Man (second his team mate Manuel Escobar). Silver for Feved also in Lead Women with Francis Rodriguez and in Bouldering women with Blanco, with a team mate - Daniela Lopez - on the third step of the podium. Bronze again for Venezuela in Bouldering Men, with Manu Escobar. Diego Marsella, from Argentina, gained his country's only medal, with a bronze in lead Men.
See the full results Lead and Speed
See the full results Bouldering
Climbers from all over the Americas are meeting this weekend in Quito for the IFSC Pan American Championships. Featuring the best continental competitors in speed, lead, and boulder, this is the first-ever calendar championship for the newly-united Pan American Council of the IFSC. Teams from South, North, and Central America will not only be competing, but in some cases they will be meeting their fellow athletes from nearby member federations for the first time. Thanks to FEDAN and Ecuador, such a high profile event held in a major capital city will mark a significant step in the evolution of the PAC organization. Importantly for the developing Continental Council, all the IFSC officials and competition personnel – Jury President, Route Setter, Judge, Delegate – are from the Americas . We wish everyone involved success – athletes, audience, media, and participating American nations - not only with a competition, but with a celebration of climbing.
by David Dornian
2010-05-18 16:18
Tune in for the IFSC live webcast of the Bouldering WC in Wien!
The IFSC launches the first of its live webcasts in cooperation with OWK for the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Wien
On Friday 28th and Saturday 29th stay tuned on the IFSC website to enjoy the Bouldering World Cup in Wien! Qualification, Semi and Finals will be webcast live on the IFSC website.
Qualifications will take place on Friday, while Saturday will be time for the breathtaking semi and final runs. Exact timings will be announced next week.
Soon after the event, the stream will be available as pay per view on www.247.tv for streaming (1€) or download (3€).
Contact the IFSC Office for any additional information!
2010-05-16 01:49
Kilian & Alex triumph in Switzerland
The 1st Boulder World Cup of the year is over with America and Austria taking gold. Silver went to Akiyo Noguchi of Japan and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic. Bronze was taken by Christian Core of Italy & Chloe Graftiaux of Belgium
Both categories went down to the wire.
In the female category anyone of 4 climbers could have won if they completed the final problem. Chloe came closest but in the end Alex won by virtue of getting all of the bonuses in the least number of tries.
In the male category Adam pushed Kilian all of the way. Adam flashed 3 out of the 4 problems and Kilian knew he had to do the same. And he did, climbing magnificently. The two were tied in the final so Kilian won on countback.
Christian Core came a brilliant thrid place and in an emotional speech after the award ceremony devoted his podium place to his great friend, the late Giovanni Cantemessa.
2010-05-15 00:23
Qualification is finished in Greifensee
Qualification has just finished in the 1st IFSC Boulder World Cup 2010 in Grefeinsee, Switzerland and the weather held off just long enough to not disrupt the competition.
In the men's qualification 3 athletes qualified in 1st place for tomorrow's semi-final: Fischhunber (AUT), Gelmanov (RUS) & Ondra (CZE). Local climbers Sommer qualified in fourth closely followed by Lachat who was equal fifth with Watson (GBR).
In the women's event 6 climbers are tied in first place going into tomorrow's semi-final: Avezou (FRA), Graftiaux (BEL), Le Neve (FRA), Noguchi (JPN), Shalagina (UKR) & Stohr (AUT).
The climbing starts at midday tomorrow with the results live here on the IFSC website.
2010-05-13 22:15
Switzerland prepares for the first Boulder World Cup of 2010
134 climbers are registered for the Boulder World Cup in Greifensee (SUI) and are all set to climb on some fiendish boulders designed by Jack Godoffe and his Team
2010-05-10 16:45
Paraclimbing Cup in Ekaterinburg
First event of the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup
The first event of the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup took place in Ekaterinburg, Russia, from may 5 until the 9th. A two-day seminar opened the event, which saw the participation of athletes from different nations among which Russia, Italy and Belarus. The athletes were divided into two groups - athletes with a physical disability and athletes with a visual impairment. Russia won the Team Ranking, followed by Italy (2nd) and Belarus (3rd).
The next event will be held in Daone, Italy, on July 24 and 25, 2010.
See the full results
2010-05-03 16:00
Applications WC 2011
The full list of Applications for the WC 2011 now available
The Applications for the World Cup events 2011 are now closed. The full list of candidatures submitted is now available for download.
The list will be now reviewed by the IFSC Events Commission that will proceed to the preparation of the Provisional Calendar 2011.
Click here to download the List of Applications 2011
2010-05-02 02:58
Russian Team wins the 1st Speed World Cup 2010
Levochkina and Vaytsekhovsky winners in Trento
The 1st Speed World Cup 2010 took place in Trento (ITA) on May 1, and was organized by the Speed Rock Committee and FASI.
Evgeny Vaytsekhovky was happy to be back to competitions after a long period of rest and training, and proved it by being the fastest on the 15m World Record Speed Wall. His time of 6.93 seconds granted him the gold medal.
The ladies' podium saw a new entry on the highest step, as the Russian Yuliya Levochkina won her first medal in an IFSC competition with a time of 10.43 seconds.
Both in the men's and in the ladies' categories the second place was awarded to a Russian: Stanislav Kokorin made it to the top in 7.20, and Alexeeva Ksenia ran in 12.64 (almost 2 seconds more than her 10.76 in the semi). A result very close to hegemony, which made Russia the winner of the Team Ranking. Third were the Czech Libor Hroza (men) and the Polish Edyta Ropek.
Next speed event will take place in Moscow, Russia (June 2010)
2010-04-30 16:57
IFSC Video Platform on the Sports Hub
Sport Accord launches the Sports Hub during the Dubai convention
At the Sport Accord convention that is almost drawing to an end in Dubai, the IFSC President Marco Scolaris attended the launch of the new You Tube based video platform where various International Federations will have their own page. The IFSC and all its members federations will be able to upload videos of the competitions, as well as educational, training tips and the like.
The channel is already visible at: http://www.youtube.com/ifscchannel although the collection of the videos is ongoing, and contributions from National federations are mostly welcome. More details concerning the upload and the possibility of contributions will be published soon.
The IFSC Office is available for any inquiry or information
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Up and Coming
IFSC World Youth Championship
Edinburgh, GBR
9-12 September 2010
Watch it live on www.ifsc-climbing.org!

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