Competition Climbing history

 
Climbing is one of the basic human movements. Everybody did it, many times in his/her life. Starting when very, very young, before being able to walk….

The movement in the vertical dimension - climbing - takes different names, depending on the ground (mountaineering, hiking, ice-climbing, etc.)

Today's climbers of all ages can enjoy sport climbing all around the world, challenging gravity and themselves in safety on nature's beautiful rocks. The natural human desire is for more commitment, excellence and challenge. Leaving mother nature unspoiled, boys and girls, men and women climb faster and faster, higher and higher, stronger and stronger.

Organised competitions started in the former USSR in the late 40's, when speed events were organised. These contests were mostly reserved to Soviet climbers until the 80's. In 1985, in Bardonecchia, an Olympic town not far from Torino, Italy, a group leaded by Andrea Mellano, member of the Academic Group of CAI, and Emanuele Cassarà, well known Italian sport journalist, convened the best climbers to "Sportroccia", the first official difficulty contest ever, on a natural crag in Valle Stretta. Thousand of spectators were amazed by the victory of German Stefan Glowacz.

The success was repeated the following year (1986), when Arco di Trento joined Bardonecchia for a combined final ranking, won by French superstar Patrick Edlinger and his compatriot Catherine Destivelle. More than 10,000 people attended the finals; seven European televisions plus many media operators were present. In the same year, 1986, the French organised the first indoor event in a suburb of Lyon, Vaulx-en-Velin, in a gymnasium, opening the way for the future. In that occasion it was clear that all the climbers were interested in this new branch of their activity, also those who appeared reluctant in the beginning.

On the International level, the French tried to convince the UIAA to recognise the circuit, things that happened in 1988, with the World Series, and in 1989 with the first World Cup, in speed and difficulty. Leader of this movement was Paul Brasset, who created a real new organisation inside the UIAA (formed by CEC and CICE), including training for officials (judges and forerunners) and setting of the competition rules.

In the early 90's, great events were organised in the main arenas in Europe, with some visits to Japan and the US. In these years it was decided to run International events on artificial walls only, in order to eliminate any environmental impact. In 1991, the 1st World Championship was organised in Frankfurt, Germany, an event that, from then on, happens every two years.

In 1992, the 1st World Youth Championship took place in Basel, Switzerland, immediately showing - with its large participation - the attraction sport climbing has on young generations and becoming an annual event.

In 1997, a new structure, the ICC - International Council for Competition Climbing, was created inside the UIAA, in order to guarantee a sufficient autonomy to the sport and to provide it with the tools for its development.

In the year 1998 the new discipline of bouldering was officially introduced. As a test, it was organised the "Top Rock Challenge", becoming World Cup in 1999.

The development brought a rich calendar such as it has happened since 2001 until now. More than 45 countries regularly participated in the official calendar, that includes not only World, Youth, Continental Championships, World Cups, Continental circuits, but also many other high profile International competitions, plus promotional events for under age kids (spiderkids) and amateurs. Well developed all around the world, today more than 75 countries participated in climbing competitions, with peaks in the World senior and youth events.

In 2005, Competition Climbing successfully participated in the Duisburg World Games, as well as in the Asian Indoor Games.

In 2006, the UIAA decided to cease governance of Competition Climbing and to support the creation of an independent International Federation to govern this sport.

On January 27th, 2007, in Frankfurt, 48 Federations convened to found the IFSC - International Federation of Sport Climbing. The Statutes and Bye-laws, as well as the regulations, of the new IF were unanimously adopted, and a new challenge began.

On April 28th, 2007, the AGFIS General Meeting accepted the IFSC as a new member.
A few weeks later, also the IWGA did the same, confirming climbing in the 2009 Kaoshiung World Games.

On December 10th, 2007, the IOC granted the provisional recognition to the IFSC, welcoming sport climbing into the Olympic Movement.

The number of members is now  76, over the five continents.

The sport has gained credibility not only because of its spectacular competitions, but also for its social values, witnessed by its introduction as a curricular-scholar sport in many countries, and special programmes that are under study for disables and other disadvantaged individuals. The quick development and growth, now also registered in many developing countries, prove that this sport can be proposed as an alternative, young, spectacular activity to people of all ages, everywhere.

On February 12th, 2010, the IOC granted the definitive recognition to the IFSC, that is now part of the Olympic Family.

Starts now a new millennium to climb.

 

 

Up and Coming

IFSC Bouldering WC

Munich, GER

30-31 July 2010