IFSC STATEMENT: RED-S AND ATHLETES’ HEALTH

Written on 01 August 2023. Posted in Uncategorised

IFSC Medical Commission is developing a comprehensive plan to transition the IFSC towards a more robust policy relating to RED-S in 2024. A summary of the work already undertaken follows:

1. Finalisation of medical details:

a) best available screening methods;

b) thresholds of results; and

c) evidence-based indicators of RED-S.

2. Development of logistical management of screenings:

a) how/when they are requested by the IFSC;

b) independent review of screenings;

c) outline for monitoring athletes with view to a return to competition;

d) data protection and privacy; and

e) education.

3. Other bio-social-psycho considerations include:

a) wider mental health initiatives;

b) education on safe practice of weight cutting;

c) female health; and

d) eating disorders.

Items already being actioned include:

1. Immediate planning of screenings at IFSC World Cups and World Championships;

2. Medical Commission meeting on RED-S;

3. Coaches Commission meeting on RED-S;

4. Athletes Commission updated on latest developments;

5. Consultation with IOC;

6. Consultation on next steps for replacement of Medical Commission Members;

7. Consultation on suitable independent expert review of documentation presented by Athletes/National Federations; and

8. Immediate planning of education on RED-Sto begin at the end of summer or beginning of fall 2023.

As a global governing body, the IFSC must consider each issue from all angles and also consider every possible ramification of any decision taken. Our focus is and has always been about education before creating sanctions, and as such we cannotrush our judgements or enact policies with undue haste, especially if such an approach could unjustly prohibit an otherwise healthy athlete from participating at our events.

New measures in 2024: based on the latest and best science available, advice from and coordination with leading stakeholders, including the IOC, the IOC Medical Commission, ASOIF’S Science and Medical Working Group, and medical experts.

The IFSC thanks those in the community that are already doing their part in the education and elimination of RED-S and other serious eating disorders from our sport and encourages the Sport Climbing community in its entirety, including athletes, coaches, and National Federations, to do the same.

New rules in place (March 2023) with the aim to involve National Federations monitoring their athletes: https://t.ly/z8JU

IFSC STATEMENT: RED-S AND ATHLETES’ HEALTH

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