MENTAL STRENGTH HELPS FRANCE’S JENFT TOP SEMI-FINAL

Paul Jenft of France finished in pole position in the men’s Boulder semi-finals at the IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2023 as one of only two climbers to top two boulders.

South Korea’s Chon Jongwon was the other athlete to top two boulders and also goes through to the final. 

Despite leading the way into the final six, Jenft wasn’t feeling in peak condition for the semi-finals: “I’m really happy with my performance. It was a hard round and the boulders were really physical. I felt a little bit weak in that round, but my mind was really strong. I was able to get two tops and I was happy with that.”

Even as top of the leaderboard, Jenft didn’t have any explanation for his lack of strength: “You train to be strong and some days it just doesn’t work, you just feel a bit weak. And today was one of those days. 

“After the first two boulders I didn’t have any tops and I thought they were more my style. The last two weren’t so much, so I had to be mentally strong to do those last two. But I am happy to make it through to the final.” 

Just behind Jenft and Jongwon in first and second, the hot new property in Japanese climbing, Anraku Sorato, again showed his potential by leading the home nation hunt for a medal qualifying in third.

There will be two French and two Japanese athletes in the final as Mejdi Schalck, qualifying in fourth position, joins compatriot Jenft and Fujii Kokoro, in sixth, joins young gun Sorato.

In August 2022 Sorato was picking up a bronze medal in the Youth A category of the Youth World Championships. At the same time Belgium’s Hannes Van Duysen was picking up Junior gold. They will now be fighting it out for IFSC World Cup medals with Van Duysen also through to the final in fifth position.

Full women's Boulder semi-final results can be found here 

Finals begin at the Esforta Arena Hachioji at 17:00 (UTC+9:00).

France's Paul Jenft celebrates a top in the men's Boulder semi-finals
Photo: Dimitris Tosidis / IFSC