The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Jakarta 2022 wrapped up the Speed 2022 season tonight.

In the men’s event, 30-year-old Aspar Aspar secured the second World Cup gold medal of his career – four years after placing first in Wujiang, China, in October 2018 – prevailing over his teammate Kiromal Katibin, and marking an impressive series of consistently fast times: 5.39 in the first round, 5.27 in the second, 5.31 in the semi-final, and 5.39 again in the gold medal race.

After taking a wild card in the opening round, Katibin won the closest race of the final against teammate, friend, and four-time World Cup gold medallist Veddriq Leonardo – 5.14 for Katibin, 5.15 for Leonardo. The world record holder, however, slipped in both of the following races, winning the semi-final thanks to a slip by Cao Long, and stopping the clock at 5.75 in his race against Aspar.

Cao completed the podium in third place, besting fellow compatriot Long Jinbao and pocketing his first World Cup medal ever.

Despite missing out on a medal on home turf, Leonardo claimed the IFSC Speed World Cup 2022 title with 4,455 points. Katibin placed second with 4,080, and Long took third place with 3,105.

220924 IFSC News Speed season wraps up in Jakarta Aspar and Deng take final golds 01Aspar Aspar of Indonesia won the second IFSC World Cup gold medal in Jakarta, Indonesia
Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC

Deng Lijuan of China ruled the women’s Speed final with an impressive crescendo of times: 7.05 in the first round, followed by 6.91, 6.69, and sealed with a fantastic 6.66 in the race for the gold medal against Poland’s Natalia Kalucka.

The bronze medal went to Aleksandra Kalucka, who took advantage of Di Niu’s fall in the bronze medal race and closed with 6.81 seconds.

On the podium of the women’s Speed World Cup 2022, Aleksandra Kalucka took first place with 4,680 points, followed by Emma Hunt of the USA, fifth in Jakarta and second in the yearly race with 3,950 points. Aleksandra twin sister, Natalia, finished in third position with 3,820 points.

220924 IFSC News Speed season wraps up in Jakarta Aspar and Deng take final golds 02Deng Lijuan of China won three IFSC World Cup gold medals out of four participations in 2022
Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC


After competing in seven stages, spread over six cities and three continents, the final medal table of the Speed discipline features China in first place, followed by Poland and Indonesia. The USA, Spain, Austria, and Italy also won medals in 2022.

  • China: 5 golds, 3 silvers, 2 bronzes;
  • Poland: 4 golds, 4 silvers, 4 bronzes;
  • Indonesia: 4 golds, 2 silvers, 5 bronzes;
  • USA: 1 gold, 3 silvers, 1 bronze;
  • Spain: 1 silver, 1 bronze;
  • Austria: 1 silver.
  • Italy: 1 bronze.

The IFSC World Cup Jakarta 2022 will continue tomorrow with the men’s and women’s Lead qualifications, commencing at 10:00 AM (UTC+7:00).

News and updates about the event will be available on the IFSC official website, and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, YouTube and TikTok.

IFSC Press Release

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