Russia Wins Three Gold in Speed, Two for the USA, One for Ukraine

The IFSC Speed Climbing Youth World Championships took place on two separate days, August 27 and 31. Team USA dominated the event by earning a total of five medals, while Russia claimed the most first-place finishes and new youth world champions.

Double Win for Russia

The times for the Junior men were fast, easily rivaling those of climbers on the World Cup circuit. Rahmad ADI MULYONO (INA) clocked in the fastest time of the competition with a 5.793 in the quarterfinals. He ultimately found a spot in the small finals after falling in the semi-final race against Almaz NAGAEV (RUS). ADI MULYONO easily outpaced Yaroslav TKACH (UKR) with another sub-six second run to finish in third place. The big final was an incredibly tight and fast race between NAGAEV and Sergey RUKIN (RUS). Both climbers also reached the buzzer in under six seconds, but it was RUKIN who placed first with only a 0.033-second lead.

The Junior women’s small final found IFSC Speed World Cup Chamonix 2019 bronze medalist Aleksandra KALUCKA (POL) against America Natalia GROSSMAN. KALUCKA had a strong start but slipped halfway up the route, only to quickly recover and land in third place. Elena REMIZOVA (RUS) faced down Alejandra CONTRERAS (CHI) in the big final where both had equally strong starts with REMIZOVA hitting the buzzer first, giving CONTRERAS the silver medal.

Gold for PASHKOV, USA vs. USA

The Youth A men’s speed final had several critical falls that played a big role in determining the final placements. In the semi-final race against Jordan FISHMAN (USA), Jacopo STEFANI (ITA) fell and landed in the small final to face Yongjun JUNG (KOR). Both entered a tight race for the final buzzer going for bronze, but STEFANI fell again on the final jump, despite a slight slip JUNG successful reached the top for third. Iaroslav PASHKOV (RUS) had a strong start in his race against FISHMAN, and reached the top in 6.456 seconds to win the gold, while FISHMAN fell and had to settle with silver.

Teammates were pitted against each other in the Youth A women’s speed final with two climbers from Italy seeking bronze in the small final and two climbers for the United States battling for gold. In a runaway win, Anna CALANCA (ITA) finished her run two seconds ahead of her compatriot Giulia RANDI (ITA) to earn a bronze medal in front of an excited home crowd. The race was tight between Emma HUNT (USA) and Kiara PELLICANE-HART (USA) with a 0.5-second difference between the concluding times. It was HUNT who seized the youth world championship title, while PELLICANE-HART took second place.

Narrow Wins and Clean Races

It was a close final for the Youth B men with the gold medalist, Hryhorii ILCHYSHYN (UKR) coming out ahead by a small 0.073-second lead. American Oliver KUANG reached the buzzer second with a final time of 6.899 seconds. The small final saw Dylan LE (CAN) face the crowd favorite Marco RONTINI of Italy for the bronze. Both had excellent starts, but after a fall from RONTINI, it was LE who landed on the podium.

The young speed climbers of the Youth B women’s competition put in a nice clean event that had no falls. Team USA faced each other in the semi-final to determine who would advance to the final battle for gold. Oceana CARTER (USA) slipped on the way up the wall and it was Callie CLOSE (USA) who faced Nuria BROCKFELD (GER) in the big final. Manon LEBON (FRA) easily beat CARTER to the buzzer to take the bronze, while CLOSE quickly outpaced BROCKFELD to earn the youth world championship crown.

Complete results for the Speed Climbing Youth World Championships can be found on the Arco event page.

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