Garnbret's Winning Streak Continues

Coming out of a difficult semi-final round, where only four of the twenty competitors managed to complete a route, the first finals round of this year’s World Championship was highly anticipated.

Japan was well represented in the finals with three athletes competing in front of their home crowd. However, after an overwhelmingly dominate bouldering season, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) was the favorite to win as she sought to retain her World Championship title from Innsbruck and continue her winning streak from the 2019 Bouldering World Cup season.

The competition was off to a fierce start with Shauna COXSEY (GBR) securing the first top of the night on W1 with Akiyo NOGUCHI (JPN) and GARNBRET following closely behind with tops of their own. It was the next two routes that would ultimately become the most difficult for the climbers, each requiring dynamic and perfectly coordinated moves to stick the zone. Following a run of no zones on W2, GARNBRET shocked the audience by completing the problem on her fifth attempt to pull ahead of the competition as the only climber with two tops and two zones. The W3 slab continued to halt the athletes’ hopes for a gold medal, this time only Miho NONAKA (JPN) and Ievegniia KAZBEKOVA (UKR) were the only ones to walk away with zones and tops.

With this turn of events, the competition came down to the last boulder problem. COXSEY easily flashed the route for her second top of the night, ultimately earning 3rd place and her first IFSC World Championship medal. NOGUCHI followed with a flash of her own to claim silver, which was quickly followed by yet another flash from GARNBRET for the gold.  

Complete results for the IFSC Bouldering World Championships can be found here.


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