Wednesday, 15 August 2018 20:13

Day 7: 5 More Medals for Japan in Lead, 1st Gold for Slovenia, USA

Leader in the medal table after Bouldering, Japan continued to excel in Youth A and Juniors Lead finals in Moscow and Slovenia and the United States won their first gold medal of the 2018 IFSC Youth World Championships.

Camille Pouget (FRA) kicked-off the traditional resistance climbing on the progressively overhanging Lead wall, reaching the headwall where the angle eases for 5th place. Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 qualified athlete Sandra Lettner (AUT) made one more move to take the bronze medal over Eliska Adamovska (CZE) on countback to semi-finals. Runner-up in 2017, American Brooke Raboutou followed their performances by setting a high point none could equal. She fought past the tiny screw-ons and slippery pinches curling to the top hold, falling just short of the chains for the United States’ first victory. Bouldering medalist Futaba Ito reached the screw-on holds for 2nd place and Japan’s 8th medal.

On the final route for male athletes, Bouldering youth world champion and YOG qualified athlete Sam Avezou set a new high point at the tricky elongated volume before the final hold. French teammate Alistair Duval stuck the move to place 4th, and Katsura Konishi of Japan made positive movement to match on the volume for 3rd place. Two finalists mastered all the Bouldering-style moves, completing the first tops of the day. Runner-up Luka Potocar of Slovenia found the sweet spot of the volume to continued onward and clip the chains. Hidemasa Nishida fought the pump to join him atop the route and stand atop the podium on countback to semi-finals, increasing Japan’s medal count to 10. YOG qualified athlete Peter Kuric (SVK) finished in 7th place.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Lead Youth A Podium Male

In the Juniors Lead finals, France and Japan added two medals and Bouldering youth world champion Meichi Narasaki (JPN) and YOG qualified athlete Vita Lukan (SLO) won their second medals in Moscow. Bronze medalist Nina Arthaud of France started the high climbing, reaching the series of pinches on the headwall before falling. YOG qualified athlete Elena Krasovskaia (RUS) fell lower on the route, leaving only YOG qualified athletes Nolwenn Arc of France and Lukan left to test their endurance. Arc secured the penultimate hold for France’s 2nd medal of the day and 5th total. Last to climb, Lukan obtained her 2nd medal in Moscow after placing 3rd in Bouldering by falling at the very last hold for gold, Slovenia’s first of the competition.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Lead Junior Podium Female

Among male finalists, YOG qualified athletes Pietro Biagini and Filip Schenk of Italy fell just after reaching the headwall to place 8th and 6th. On the Bouldering podium, Kai Harada (JPN) earned another bronze medal in Lead by battling to the final volume before the top. Runner-up Jakub Konecny refused to fall on the route, clipping the chains to enter the Czech Republic in the medal table. Narasaki matched Konecny with a top of his own and won on countback to semi-finals, becoming the Bouldering and Lead youth world champion of 2018 and claiming Japan’s 12th medal.

The full results, replays and highlights can be found on the Moscow event page, and click here for the updated medal table.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Lead Junior Podium Male

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