Arco, Italy, continues to attract the most elite athletes in sport climbing. In a competitive field, athletes worked hard for a spot on the podium at the fourth IFSC World Cup of the Lead and Speed season.
The women’s Lead final was defined by a challenging technical line of volumes midway, followed by consecutive dynamic moves. Anne-Sophie Koller of Switzerland was first to complete the crux moves and push into the concluding section. Korean Jain Kim later matched the high point, displaying her smooth style of climbing shown all season. 2017 stars Anak Verhoeven and Janja Garnbret finished the round. Verhoeven stalled at the first dyno and placed 6th, and Garnbret fell at the second dyno for third place, ending her winning streak at three consecutive IFSC Lead World Cup wins. With her victory at Arco and third podium, Kim moved into second place in the season rankings behind Garnbret. Koller, the runner-up, won the first medal of her IFSC World Cup career.
In the men’s final, numerous slopers required open-hand power and efficient footwork of the eight finalists. Austrian Jakob Schubert wowed the crowd by fighting past the previous high point and battling the volcano holds on the roof before the upper panel. His teammate Max Rudigier also pushed into the overhanging section, falling just one move shy of Schubert’s mark. Once again two titans of sport climbing concluded the final round, with Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic and German Alexander Megos last to climb. Ondra fought the pump to match Rudigier’s score, and Megos fell early at a lower dyno. Schubert won his first Gold medal since 2014, and Ondra placed second on countback to qualifications. Rudigier won the first medal of his career also.
Italian Speed athletes dominated qualifications for the men at Arco. Four athletes advanced to finals, including Ludovico Fossali who posted the fastest time all weekend (5.81). Season leaders Reza Alipourshenazandifar of Iran and Russian Vladislav Deulin faced-off in the Gold medal match, with Deulin returning to the top of the podium and taking the lead in the season Speed rankings after a slip from the men’s Speed world record holder. Fossali finished in third place, besting Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine in the small final. It was the first time Russia did not place two athletes on a podium this IFSC World Cup season.
For the women, Anouck Jaubert of France faced-off against Speed rival Iuliia Kaplina of Russia in the final match. Kaplina, who had nearly approached her Speed world record at Arco, started the race too quickly, making Jaubert the default winner. Jaubert traded places with Kaplina at the top of the podium again after placing second at The World Games in Wroclaw last month. She also gained ground in the women’s Speed rankings, moving into second place above Mariia Krasavina of Russia. Krasavina’s teammate Anna Tsyganova won Bronze after a fall from Anna Brozek of Poland in the small final.
Friday 25th August
09:00 Lead Qualifications
19:00 Speed Qualifications
Saturday 26th August
11:00-13:30 Lead Semi-Finals (LIVE)
17:00 Lead Finals (LIVE)
19:00 Speed Finals (LIVE)
20:30 Award Ceremony (LIVE)