China’s Wu Peng and Deng Lijuan made it a double home gold in front of an adoring crowd at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center at the IFSC World Cup Wujiang.
Japan will once again dominate an IFSC World Cup Lead final as five men and four women make up the eights of IFSC World Cup Wujiang at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center.
The familiar names of Anraku Sorato and Mori Ai lead the way in their respective competitions, both registering semi-finals tops to progress to the finals.
Also topping the women’s route was Tanii Natsuki who follows teammate Mori in second position. Both are ahead of World Cup Chamonix winner Kim Jain of South Korea who reached hold 34.
Touching the same point, Austria’s Jessica Pilz is fourth ahead of the other two Japanese finalists – Ito Futaba in fifth and Nonaka Miho in sixth.
Nonaka said: “I got pumped pretty early to be honest so I didn’t think that I was going to go as high, but I’m happy. In the qualification round it was really cold and I got good friction, but today it’s hot in here and I have sweaty hands so I have to grab really hard on every hold so that made me pumped.
“I’m glad I have the rest of the day today and most of tomorrow to recover so I’m hoping to recover enough to go again and fight one more time.”
From position five to eight, all athletes reached hold 28+ with Zhang Yuetong giving the home crowd something to cheer in seventh and France’s Manon Hily in eighth.
Full Lead women’s results can be found here
Just like the women there is a Japanese one-two with both men topping the semi-final route. Anraku leads ahead of teammate Homma Taisei.
South Korea’s Song Yunchan is third reaching hold 42+ ahead of two climbers who reached hold 38+ - Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann in fourth and Yurikusa Ao in fifth.
Nicolas Collin of Belgium produced a personal best finish by reaching hold 37+ and holding onto the sixth position to make the final beating his previous best of tenth overall.
Collin said: “It was pretty cool. I was lucky to find a good rest position in the middle of the route. I was super pumped and I could recover with the rest so I was happy to find this nice trick. After that I put up a good fight and I was super happy.
“I knew it was a good run, but you never know if it is going to be enough as it totally depends on how the others after you climb. The good thing was it was a tricky route so I thought it was possible for some to make some mistakes and I could make the final.
“Hopefully for the final I can find another nice trick, put up a good fight, but also enjoy the moment.”
On 34+, Japan’s Omata Shion was seventh and teammate Ogata Yoshiyuki eighth to complete the final lineup.
Full Lead men’s results can be found here
The finals will take place tomorrow, the final day of the 2023 IFSC World Cup series, at 19:00 (UTC+8:00) where the event and Lead series winners will be crowned.
Nonaka Miho (JPN) in IFSC World Cup Wujiang women's Lead semi-finals action
Photo: Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC
Speed qualification at IFSC World Cup Wujiang has whittled the climbers down to the final 16 men and women who will compete for the medals tomorrow at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center. Here are some of the thoughts from the athletes.
Qualification at IFSC World Cup Wujiang has given us the 26 climbers through to the semi-finals at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center, and we talk to some of the athletes for some competition thoughts.
The IFSC World Cup returns to China this weekend as Wujiang hosts Lead and Speed climbers from across the globe from 22 to 24 September in the final World Cup of the 2023 season.
Throughout the 2023 season, the IFSC will bring some interesting facts and figures ahead of our events, in association with statistician Paul Highams. The next set of stats is for the upcoming World Cup event taking place in Wujiang, China from 22 to 24 September 2023 for the Lead and Speed disciplines and is heldindoor at the Fenhu Culture and Sports Center.
The IFSC European Qualifier Rome 2023 finally presented Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland and Bassa Mawem of France with a ticket to Paris 2024, after they both placed in top position in the men’s and women’s Speed final, respectively.
The home team played a starring role in the opening round of the IFSC European Qualifier Rome 2023, which took place at noon in one of most iconic sports venues in Italy – Foro Italico. Indeed, four Italian climbers in total – one women and three men – made the cut and qualified for the Speed finals that will conclude the event.
Climbing in the iconic sports complex of Foro Italico in Rome, Italy, Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw set things straight from the very beginning, taking first place in the women’s qualification round at the IFSC European Qualifier.
The IFSC Athletes’ Commission has a new look after four new members were welcomed to replace the outgoing climbers at the end of their tenure.
One of the most ancient cities in the world, with a history that spans 28 centuries, is about to award two Olympic tickets in the fastest medal event of the Paris 2024 programme.
The IFSC European Speed Qualifier will take place tomorrow in the Italian capital city of Rome, with qualifications scheduled to start at 12:00 (UTC+2:00) and finals closing the day at 20:00.
The winners of the gold medal race in both the men’s and women’s events will qualify for the Paris Olympics, pending the confirmation of their respective National Olympic Committees, and adding their names to the ones of Matteo Zurloni of Italy, Long Jinbao of China, Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia, and Emma Hunt of the USA – who all qualified at the IFSC World Championships Bern 2023, last August.
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