A cloud-covered Innsbruck welcomed the first Lead finals of the 2021 season this evening, where teammates watched the action, suspense, and surprises from the edge of their seats in the Kletterzentrum.

In his hometown of Innsbruck, Austrian Olympian Jakob Schubert climbed atop the men’s podium with a score of 47+, earning the 22nd gold medal of his World Cup career. After taking gold in Lead and Combined during the IFSC Climbing World Championships Innsbruck 2018, this marks the third gold medal that Schubert has won on his doorstep. Hot on Schubert’s heels was Italian Stefano Ghisolfi, who placed second with 47 points and took his World Cup medal tally to a total of 13.  With a score of 38+ Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann completed the men’s podium in third place.

In a shock-turn of events, Czech climbing star Adam Ondra, who will compete at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 this summer, fell at hold 17. Currently recovering from a shoulder injury, Ondra had an unfortunate series of slips during the first section of the wall, resulting in an unexpected last-place finish. Japan’s Masahiro Higuchi, Spain’s Alberto Ginés López, Alexander Megos of Germany, and Luka Potocar of Slovenia concluded the men’s final in fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh place, respectively.

No surprises in the women’s event, Slovenian sensation Janja Garnbret claimed her 28th World Cup gold medal – a collection which also boasts six World Championship medals. In a stunning performance, Garnbret achieved the only top of tonight’s final, after pausing to leave onlookers in suspense before leaping for the final hold. Fellow Olympians Brooke Raboutou, of the USA, and Akiyo Noguchi, of Japan, joined Garnbret on the women’s Lead podium, with respective scores of 40 and 33+. After achieving two consecutive bronze medals at the Boulder world cups in Salt Lake City, USA, last month, Raboutou’s second place in Innsbruck earned the American her third World Cup medal, and her first silver medal.

Also Olympians, Viktoriia Meshkova of Russia, Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Italy’s Laura Rogora, finished in fourth, fifth, and seventh place. Garnbret’s compatriots Vita Lukan and Lucka Rakovec closed in sixth and eighth place following a tough final.

Full results from the men’s final can be found here, and the women’s results can be seen here.

The podium of the women’s event is as follows:

  1. Janja Garnbret (SLO)
  2. Brooke Raboutou (USA)
  3. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

The men’s podium is as follows:

  1. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
  2. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
  3. Sascha Lehmann (SUI)

Austria's Jakob Schubert wins the Lead World Cup on home soil in Innsbruck
Photo: Lena Drapella/IFSC

IFSC World Cup Series 2021

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