Gold for Poland and Italy
The seventh day of the IFSC Climbing World Championships featured Speed Climbing and a final full of fast climbers hoping to set a new world record. The qualifications held some impressively fast times with nine of the women coming in under 8 seconds and ten of the men clocking in under 6 seconds.
MIROSLAW Becomes a Double World Champion
The first speed match-up of the finals saw reigning Innsbruck World Champion Aleksandra MIROSLAW (POL) against MingWei NI (CHN), and the combined win and early start to the competition seemed to grant MIROSLAW the necessary momentum to advance through the remaining rounds.
MIROSLAW took on Di NIU (CHN) in the race for the gold medal. With blistering speed, she started her run with a near-world record pace, finishing in 7.129 seconds, just short of the leading time to earn her second consecutive World Championships gold medal.
Both of the women’s 2019 Speed World Cup leaders, China’s YiLing SONG and Anouck JAUBERT of France, faced each other in the small final. A slip from SONG halfway up the route gave JAUBERT the lead needed to claim the bronze medal.
A New Men’s World Champion
The men’s finals was a surprising event from start to finish with many of climbers favored to win dropping out of the competition early, including 2019 Speed World Cup frontrunner Bassa MAWEM (FRA), and Innsbruck World Champion and current Speed Climbing World Record holder Reza ALIPOURSHENZANDIFAR (IRI).
A fall in the semi-final landed Innsbruck bronze medalist Stanislav KOKORIN (RUS) in the small final where he took on Danyil BOLDYREV (UKR) and came out on top to earn a second consecutive World Championship bronze medal.
However, it was the battle for the gold medal that was the most exciting part of the event. Italian Ludovico FOSSALI was a wildcard having advanced to the final round of the competition after both of his previous opponents false-started. Both FOSSALI and Jan KRIZ (CZE) had near-perfect starts only to stumble simultaneously at the same section of the route. In a dash for the finish, FOSSALI hit the buzzer first for his first World Championships gold medal, while KRIZ fell and had to settle with silver.
Complete results for the IFSC Speed World Championships can be found here.
After an exciting week of competitions, it’ time to combine the three disciplines and determine the first group of Olympic qualifying athletes. The best 20 climbers out of the 172 who competed in Bouldering, Lead and Speed will be eligible to compete in the Combined qualifications. After the finals, the seven highest-placed athletes per gender, with a maximum of 2 per country, will qualify for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games. More information about the Tokyo 2020 Qualification System can be found here.
The women’s Combined qualifications begin tomorrow with men’s taking place on Monday 19th August. The finals will be held Tuesday 20th August and Wednesday 21st August. The finals will be live-streamed on the IFSC homepage and the IFSC YouTube channel. Chat with us on Twitter during the event using the #IFSCwch hashtag. For the complete schedule of events, list of starters and live streams, visit the official IFSC Climbing World Championship webpage.