The Speed qualifications kicked off a day that will end with not only world champions, but two climbers from both the men’s and women’s competitions that will have secured a ticket to Paris 2024.

In the men’s, the Indonesian and Chinese teams continued to show great strength and depth in their squads with half of the finals made up of the two nations.

In first is the world record holder Leonardo Veddriq of Indonesia. Once again Vedrriq showed his form with a 5.10 to lead the way into finals followed closely by teammate Adi Mulyono Rahmad in second with 5.11.

The top Chinese climber is Wu Peng who goes through in third with a 5.15.

Top non-Indonesian or Chinese climber is Italy’s Matteo Zurloni in sixth with 5.24.

Two French climbers make the final 16 as Bassa Mawem and Pierre Rebreyand come in under the 5.39 time needed to qualify. That 5.39 was set by Ukraine’s Yaroslav Tkach in 15th and Spain’s Erik Noya Cardona in 16th.

Noya Cardona said: “The first run I felt pretty good. I did a good time so that could allow me to do another on the second, but I was just a bit too fast and I missed it a little which was a shame, but I will keep pushing.

"It’s not a season best but that first run was good for a first run without two warmups. I think I pushed it a little too much to the limit then, and I was also really nervous, so that played against me. I just need to keep pushing and do better in the finals.”

Not making finals but setting a new African continental record, Joshua Bruyns of South Africa lowered his own record to 5.95. 

Full men’s results can be found here

In the women’s Speed, once again it was the world record holder who topped qualification. Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw set a time of 6.40 and followed it up with a 6.41 to show her consistency and speed.

Miroslaw will be joined by teammates and twin sisters Aleksandra and Natalia Miroslaw in the finals.

In second spot was Indonesia’s Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Desak. A 6.75 was enough to stay ahead of the Kalucka sisters and the Indo climber will be joined by both Rajiah Sallsabillah and Nurul Iqamah in the finals.

Leslie Adriana Romero Perez will be Spain’s representative in the finals progressing in ninth place and said: “I am fine with my results and I felt good on the wall. I just want to enjoy the finals now and give everything I have.”

Just behind in tenth spot was France’s Capucine Viglione who had to put a slow first run behind her to progress: “It was hard for me because I missed the first run, and that is the worst scenario in competition. I hate this because you know you only have one chance to stay in the comp, and its extra hard because it’s one of the most important and stressful competitions of the year.”

So how did the French climber re-focus: “I went to see some friends and that helped me to clear my head and settle myself. Before finals I think I will take a nap, the qualification was too early for me. A nap is what I need to be fast tonight.”

The time to qualify for finals was 7.48 and that was set by China’s Niu Di.

Full women’s results can be found here


IFSC World Championships Bern 2023

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