Janja Garnbret (SLO) and Jakob Schubert (AUT) clinched* the Lead season titles at IFSC World Cup Wujiang last weekend and Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) and Jessica Pilz (AUT) secured the next steps of the Lead season podium. Jain Kim (KOR) will join Garnbret and Pilz on the women's Lead podium at season's end, but the final spot on the men's Lead season podium has yet to be decided. After enduring longest on the semi-final route in Wujiang, Romain Desgranges (FRA) soared in the men's Lead season ranking. Even if Domen Skofic (SLO) takes the victory in Xiamen, two-time Lead season medalist Desgranges can remain on the Lead season podium for a third consecutive season by winning a medal in Xiamen. Austria, Slovenia and Japan hold the advantage in the team ranking for Lead, and strong performances at the last event could change the current ordering.
In Speed, Anouck Jaubert (FRA) was consistently quick in Wujiang and clinched the women's Speed season title, but the remaing spots on the men and women's Speed season podiums are up for grabs. Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) leads among the men, but Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS), Reza Alipourshenzandifar (IRI), Bassa Mawem (FRA) and Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) can all mathemetically overtake Boldyrev for the men's Speed season title. Russian teammates Iuliia Kaplina and Mariia Krasavina currently rank 3rd and 2nd among the women, but a surging Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA) could disrupt their plans. Russia has yet to lose the team ranking in Speed and is poised to continue their winning streak after dominating all season long, followed by France and Indonesia.
This year, the Overall season titles are decided by a new calculation. Athletes competing in two or more Bouldering, Lead and Speed events are given ranking points based on their relative ranking against one another at counting events. Their top two events per discipline are counted, and the six ranking points are multiplied. Garnbret and Schubert displaced Japanese teammates Tomoa Narasaki and Miho Nonaka from provisional 1st place in Wujiang, and both Overall season podiums will be decided in Xiamen.
The schedule, starters, 2017 highlights and more can be found on the Xiamen event page, and tune-in for the LIVE streaming of semi-final and final rounds on October 28th at ifsc-climbing.org.
*Note: As per Rule 11.7.4.ii, the worst score is dropped in the season ranking for athletes competing in all IFSC World Cup events of that disciplne.