Saturday, 15 September 2018 21:44

Innsbruck 2018: Day 10 - Bouldering Finals

Slovenian Janja Garnbret, runner-up in Lead last week in Innsbruck, and Kai Harada of Japan stormed to the top of the Bouldering podiums on Thursday and Friday at the 2018 IFSC World Championships.

After topping every route the week prior in Lead but placing 2nd on time in finals, Garnbret left no doubt in Bouldering. She was the only athlete in semi-finals on Thursday morning to flash three problems. Bouldering season champion in the IFSC World Cup series Miho Nonaka (JPN), previous Bouldering world champion Petra Klingler (SUI) and newly crowned Lead world champion Jessica Pilz (AUT) were among the athletes handling the pressure on the last problem to advance.

Four more challenging problems awaited the six finalists in the evening, requiring maximum effort to score tops as well as zone points. A zone point is marked on every problem at a difficult to reach hold and breaks ties when the same number of tops are completed (number of attempts to tops and then number of attempts to zone points would break remaining ties). Stasa Gejo (SRB) was first to solve the multi-move jump start to score the zone point on the first problem (W1), but Garnbret took the lead by securing the jump and sticking the dyno to the finishing hold for the top. Technical moves on a steep section of the Bouldering wall forced the finalists into contorted positions on W2, and Garnbret gained another advantage by scoring the zone point. Gejo and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) topped the W3 slab, but Garnbret sealed the world title in Bouldering and a second medal in Innsbruck with another top and zone point. Noguchi kept the body tension on the strength-based final problem to overtake Gejo for 2nd place, and Gejo won the first medal for Serbia at the IFSC World Championships.

2018 IFSC World Championship Innsbruck Austria Bouldering Women Janja Garnbret Slovenia

Obtaining four tops in the men’s semi-final on Friday was the ticket to advancing to finals. Bouldering season champion Jernej Kruder (SLO) and previous world champion Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), leaders after qualifications, missed one top and did not advance.

All six finalists topped the first problem of the men’s Bouldering final on Friday evening, but Jongwon Chon (KOR) took an early lead by completing the triple dyno and continuing for the top on his first attempt. On the M2 slab, Harada scored a flash of his own to gain a lead he would never give up. He was the first athlete to connect the technical moves on M3, solving the palm press at the zone point and seamlessly switching into the barn-door swing before topping. Chon and Kokoro Fujii (JPN) also completed the problem, and Gregor Vezonik (SLO) secured the zone point in the final seconds of his turn to stay in the medal hunt. Harada showed precision under pressure on the last problem. He latched the tiny thumb catch at the zone point and kept his composure on the next moves for the flash, securing his first gold medal at a senior IFSC event on the biggest stage. Chon placed 2nd with one less top, and Vezonik placed 3rd behind Chon by zone point attempts after scoring the only other top of M4.

2018 IFSC World Championship Innsbruck Austria Bouldering Women Kai Harada Japan

After 10 days of world-class Sport Climbing, the action in Innsbruck concludes on Sunday with the first Combined finals at the IFSC World Championships. To see how the top 6 men and women competing in Bouldering, Lead and Speed disciplines in Innsbruck qualified for the Combined finals, check the results on the Innsbruck event page for Climbing, where links to the results of Combined finals will also be shown. Tune-in to the IFSC homepage to watch the LIVE streaming, and USA viewers can watch the women and men’s Combined finals LIVE on the IFSC website here. Join the chat on Twitter at #IFSCwch during the shows!

USA viewers click on the links here for the full replay of the men's Bouldering semi-final and final on OlympicChannel.com.

2018 IFSC World Championship Innsbruck Austria Bouldering Women Podium

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