Speed youth world champion Jimin Jeong of Korea took a provisional lead among female finalists by falling at the first volume of the headwall. Runner-up Nika Potapova was first to catch the screw-on and continue a few crimps further for Ukraine’s first medal in Moscow. YueTong Zhang also completed the move and dropped just shy of Potapova’s high point for China’s first medal. Last to climb, Bouldering youth world champion Tanii concluded the climbing for female youth stars in Moscow by jumping for the top hold and latching it with one hand to become Lead youth world champion too.
Tanii’s compatriot Kentaro Maeda excelled on the final route for male Youth B athletes, balancing across the slopers on the headwall for the bronze medal. 2nd in Bouldering, Thomas Podolan of Austria matched the performance in Lead, hugging the penultimate feature and leaping out right for the first top. Champion in 2017 after a crowd-pleasing dynamic finish, Duffy replicated the feat in Moscow. Under pressure as the last climber of the eight-day competition, he stuck the concluding dyno for another magical finish, defending the Lead title on countback to semi-finals where he achieved the sole top. Duffy and Youth A champion Hidemasa Nishida were the only athletes in Moscow to never fall on the Lead wall.
Thanks to Duffy’s final top, the United States rose from 6th place to 3rd in the team medal table with two victories and six medals. As in 2017, Japan, Russia and the United States occupied the top three places in 2018. After dominating in Speed the first half of the competition, the host nation of Russia maintained an edge by one bronze medal for 2nd place. Champions in 2017, Japan defended first place in Moscow, bringing home a leading six gold medals and 14 medals in total.