Tuesday, 14 August 2018 13:56

Day 6: Japan Concludes Bouldering with Double Victory

Japan concluded the Bouldering at IFSC Youth World Championships Moscow 2018 with a double victory and the provisional lead in the medal table. 2017 winner Rei Kawamata defended the title and last year’s runner-up Natsuki Tanii climbed to first place.

Five of the six female finalists solved the technical climbing on the volume cluster of F1, including Tanii and compatriot Hana Kudo who both flashed. Tanii and Naile Meignan (FRA) took the lead on the second problem, successfully working through the jump start and miniscule screw-ons defending the top hold. Canadian Indiana Chapman showed finesse on F3, capturing the lone top of the problem to place 4th with one top. On the finishing power problem, Kudo surpassed the large features for the bronze medal. Meignan put the pressure on Tanii with a top of her own, forcing her to top in two attempts or less to exchange the silver medal in 2017 for gold. Tanii stayed composed and needed only one attempt to reach the top hold and the top of the podium for the Youth B Bouldering title.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Bouldering Youth Natsuki Tanii Japan

2017 Youth B medalists Kawamata and Ryoei Nukui began the final for male athletes with tops and the early lead. Every finalist completed the run start and overhanging traverse to the final hold on M2, but only Thomas Podolan of Austria flashed the problem. The pace slowed on the M3 slab, but the delicate walk to the zone point proved no problem for Kawamata, Podolan and Paul Jenft (FRA), who placed 4th. Podolan used smart body positioning to scale the series of volumes on the last problem for Austria’s first medal in Moscow, requiring a top from Kawamata to win. The now two-time Bouldering youth world champion did just that, the only finalist to top all four problems in finals. Already on the podium, Nukui ended his round with a top for good measure, maintaining his bronze medal and making it four medals for Japan in Youth B.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Bouldering Youth B Rei Kawamata Japan

The full results, replay and highlights can be found on the Moscow event page, and click here for the updated medal table.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Bouldering Youth B Podium Female

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