Saturday, 11 August 2018 18:58

Day 3: Narasaki, Slaney End Youth Careers on Top

Second-year Juniors Meichi Narasaki (JPN) and Hannah Slaney (GBR) rose to the top of the first Bouldering podium in Moscow at their last IFSC Youth World Championships.

A dynamic start and physical moves greeted the six female finalists on the first problem. Combined world champion and Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 (YOG) qualified athlete Elena Krasovskaia began with a flash in front of her home crowd, matched by Urska Repusic of Slovenia. Precision was required to conserve energy on the tiny screw-ons of F2, and Slaney flashed to take the lead. YOG qualified athletes Vita Lukan (SLO) and Mao Nakamura (JPN) also topped the second problem. All five athletes kept the friction across volumes and slopers and a tricky swing for the zone point on F3, leaving the final problem to decide the podium. Repusic found a static solution to maintain her balance through the challenging traverse of F4 for 2nd place, and Slaney scored the zone point to become the first Bouldering youth world champion of Great Britain. Lukan joined teammate Repusic on the podium, edging Nakamura by completing her three tops in less attempts.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Bouldering Juniors Hannah Slaney Great Britain

Kai Harada of Japan started strong among male finalists, hanging by one hand to secure the opening dyno and continuing onward for the sole top of M1. Narasaki and Yannick Flohé (GER) rebounded with tops of their own on M2, solving the technical rollover to do so. Every athlete topped M3, leaving the final moments to again decide the Bouldering winners. Narasaki flashed the powerful fourth problem to exchange his silver medal last year for gold, and Flohé earned Germany’s first medal in Moscow with a top of his own. Harada scored the zone point for 3rd place in a dramatic last effort, and Matteo Manzoni (ITA) topped M4 but just missed the podium.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Bouldering Juniors Meichi Narasaki Japan

The full results, replay and highlights can be found on the Moscow event page, and click here for the updated medal table.

2018 IFSC Climbing Youth World Championship Moscow Russia Bouldering Juniors Podium Female

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