The weather was glorious this weekend in Chamonix, and the alpine sports capital of the Alps lived up to its promise of adrenaline-pumping sensations minus the danger with the world’s top speed and lead climbers putting on a great show in front of a large crowd.
Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Mina Markovic top the podium in Lead
In the men’s category, Ramón Julian Puigblanque of Spain took gold after a stunning performance. The Spanish powerhouse managed to grab the very last hold of the men’s finals, but could not control the wild swing and took a spectacular fall 20m above the screaming Chamonix crowd. All-time favourite Adam Ondra (CZE) fell one move below and came second with a 52+, while outsider Sebastian Halenke (GER) took bronze.
The women’s competition saw incredible performances from the Slovenian team. Both Mina Markovic and rising star of Slovenia Janja Garnbret, aged only 16, topped the Final route, and Mina Markovic won thanks to her results in Qualification. Jessica Pilz (AUT) completed the podium.
A World Record and a coronation in Speed
In the women’s category, Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) broke her previous World Record by 0.03s, establishing a new World Record at 7:53s. She couldn’t climb as fast during finals, and local favourite Anouck Jaubert took gold in front of her home crowd. It is a coronation for the French climber, who proved that she was in podium-worthy shape with her gold medal in Haiyang (CHN) two weeks ago. Mariia Krasavina of Russia completes the podium.
In the men’s field, Libor Hroza (CZE) secured gold against Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) after an exceptional situation: there was an exact tie between the two finalists at 5:70s, and they had to run the final again to pick a winner. The victory finally came to Libor Hroza after a false start from Danyil Boldyrev. Qixin Zhong (CHN) took the bronze after a solid performance during the small final.