The 2014 IFSC Lead, Speed, and Paraclimbing World Championships were held September 8-13 in Gijón, Spain, the largest city of Asturias. An important city since the Roman Empire, Gijón's Atlantic coastline provided the perfect backdrop for the IFSC World Championships!
A brand new, innovative wall, designed specifically for the event by IFSC Partner Entre-Prises and Top30, and a state-of-the-art venue in Gijón were the setting for an epic battle with historic results in Lead, Speed, and Paraclimbing!
Climbing into history in Lead
All eyes were on the Lead competition coming into Gijón, and our athletes did not disappoint; the competition was full of suspense and an electric atmosphere palpable even for spectators tuning it at home!
On the women’s side, things were close coming into the finals, with Jain Kim (KOR) and Anak Verhoeven (BEL) tied in first with tops on all previous routes. After a heartbreaking slip that put Verhoeven out of the running, Kim calmly topped the final route, becoming the only woman to do so and the only Lead climber with a perfect record and well-deserved gold medal in the Championships! Rounding out the podium were Mina Markovic, who took silver with a score of 47+, followed by Magdalena Röck (AUT) who scored 47+ as well, but took bronze because of count back.
The men’s top spot was also tied coming into the finals, with recently crowned IFSC Boulder World Champion Adam Ondra (CZE) and hometown favorite Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP) tied with 3 tops in qualifications and semi-finals. Ondra climbed first, falling on one of the very last holds before the top, followed by Julian Puigblanque, who, buoyed by the crowd’s deafening cheers, made it to the same spot, but slipped before making the next move, scoring 45. Ondra, with his score of 45+, took the gold medal, becoming the first climber in history to win both Boulder and Lead World Champion titles in the same year. Julian Puigblanque took silver, and Sachi Amma (JPN) bronze with a score of 42+.
Boldyrev shatters Speed World Record
The Speed competition was no less historic, with Danyl Boldyrev (UKR), shattering the previous world record of 5.73 seconds (set in Arco on August 31 by Libor Hroza), clocking in on his final run at 5.60 seconds. Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) took silver with a time of 5.92 seconds, and Reza Alipourshenazandifar (IRI) took bronze at 6.11 seconds.
In the women’s field, the Polish team put up a great fight to the incredibly strong Russians and ended up taking second through fourth places. Russia’s Alina Gaidamakina held strong and won gold with a time of 8.38 seconds, followed by Klaudia Buczek (POL) at 8.55 seconds, and Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL), with a time of 9.00 seconds.
Great success at Paraclimbing Championship and Masters
For the first time this year, the IFSC decided to host a dual Paraclimbing competition during the World Championships in Gijón, with athletes in categories with less than 4 athletes from 3 countries competing the World Paraclimbing Masters competition. This way, around 30 climbers whose categories didn’t have enough participants were able to compete on the world stage. Overall, around 100 paraclimbers competed in Gijón, a historic figure for a Paraclimbing World competition, both Championships and IFSC Paraclimbing Cups.