IFSC Newsletter 05-07-2011  
Sport Climbing is in for 2020

Released on July 4 the list of sports to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Olympiad

Closer to our dreams

On July 4, 2011 the IOC Executive Board announced the sports shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games. The announcement was made ahead of the 123rd IOC session in Durban, South Africa.

The sports included are: baseball, karate, roller sports, softball, sports climbing, squash, wakeboard and wushu, one of which could be added to the 2020 summer sports program.

Baseball and softball were dropped after 2008 and are looking for reinstatement, while karate, roller sports and squash are not new to the shortlist. Only sport climbing, wushu and wakeboard are for the first time being considered for the Olympic programme.

IFSC President Marco Maria Scolaris welcomed the decision as a step forward in the development of the sport and in the pursuit of the vision that always guided the efforts of the IFSC, which has from the outset set forth a vision for sport climbing to be an Olympic sport.

The questionnaires, sent at the end of April 2011, were evaluated on the basis of the athletes’ profiles in gender, number and demographic spread, the participation and contribution from the Youth, the measures undertaken for Anti Doping, the Sustainability and Legacy of the sport and the Media development.

From 2007, when the IFSC was formed, sport climbing has seen tremendous growth, with an increase in the number of National Federations, an increase in the number of licensed clubs and most of all an increase in the number of registered climbers across all five continents.The IFSC also committed from the start to the strictest compliance with WADA anti-doping Code, and has devoted great efforts to guarantee gender equality at all levels.

The final decision on the inclusion of one of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Olympiad will be taken during the 125th IOC Session in Buenos Aires in 2013. “Another hard route has been climbed, and a new starting point has been set” - commented President Scolaris, who announced the formation of a committee specially dedicated to the tasks connected to the Olympic Bid, and thus named IFSC Olympic Dream 2020 Bid Team.

"With the support of the whole IFSC EB - says Scolaris - I asked Li Zixhin (Representative for the Asian Council) and Keith Ferguson (Representative for the Pan American Council) to help me in this fantastic adventure. While we are all excited, I also want to thank the IOC Programme Commission and the IOC Executive Board for this amazing recognition to our athletes and to the sport."

The comments by IOC President Jacques Rogge on the inclusion of slopestyle events in skiing and snowboarding in 2014 may sound as a good omen for sport climbing."It is growing very fast - said Rogge. You have young, dedicated, spectacular athletes..." which may as well apply to our sport.

Boulder World Cup Updates

Only two events left before the end of the Bouldering season

Fischhuber and Stohr lead the Boulder WC Ranking 2011

 June closed with the 7th event of the IFSC Boulder World Cup 2011, in Barcelona, Spain. The heat seems to have shuffled the cards, so that neither of the two favorites, the Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stohr, made it to the podium.

While nobody really expected Guillaume Glairon Mondet to win the men’s (he was 5th in Vail and 7th in Eindhoven), the superiority of Akiyo Noguchi in the women’s field clear from the start. The Japanese athlete was 5th in Vail but won the golden medal also in Eindhoven, 6th round of the Bouldering series, where Kilian Fischhuber celebrated his third victory of 2011.

The IFSC Boulder World Cup held in Vail at the beginning of the month was the only competition so far where both Anna Stohr and Fischhuber made it to the highest step of the podium, celebrating Austria’s strength in bouldering. Second and third in the women’s field were Alex Puccio (USA) and Melissa Le Neve (FRA), who are getting the public used to seeing them on the podium; Sharafutdinov, with a second placement, started yielding terrain to Kilian, while Johnas Baumann (GER) could not repeat 2009’s gold at the same event, but still managed to win the bronze.

Next events: Sheffield (2-3 July), Munich (19-20 August)

Complete rankings and results: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/result


IFSC World Championship - Arco 2011

Countdown for the opening of the XI IFSC World Championship in Arco, Italy

700 athletes registered for Arco

More than 700 athletes have registered for the XI IFSC World Championship that will take place in Arco, Italy, from July 15 to July 24; over 55 countries will be represented in the biggest event of the season. An event that will also be a celebration of the tradition of the sport.

The Opening Ceremony will take place on Saturday 16 at the Climbing Stadium, soon after the Team Parade. IFSC President Marco Scolaris will be present, to celebrate the event and the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the shortlist for 2020.

The Boulder events will take place from Friday 15 to Suday 17, when the best boulderists will rival to gain the title of World Champion. Monday and Tuesday will be dedicated to the 1st IFSC Paraclimbing World Championship, attended by 24 athletes representing 7 countries. Lead competitions will start on Wednesday and Thursday, while on Friday and Saturday the Lead Semis and Finals will be alternated with the Speed events. The Medals Ceremony will close the official events, but the Sunday will be dedicated to the Rock Master gala and to the famous Duel, a one to one challenge for the best Lead athletes.

The whole event will be webcast live on www.ifsc.tv, according to the competition schedule to be found here.

The Arco Organizing Committee will also provide free access to broadcasting services (daily highlights, custom edits). To register go to www.broadcaster.it

IFSC Calendar 2012

Released the IFSC Provisional Calendar for 2012

The provisional calendar 2012 to be finalized by September

The IFSC has just released the provisional calendar for 2012, defined according to the new evaluation criteria set by the IFSC Sport Department. For every discipline, the limit number of 8 events has been set, with the exception of Lead, where Inzai (JPN) has been accepted as an additional event due to extraordinary circumstances.

The Calendar 2012 will be finalized in September; the provisional IFSC Calendar is already available here. Click here for a summary chart of the IFSC 2012 season. 

Facts and Figures

Interesting facts about Sport Climbing

The world fastest climbers

The fastest man climber is the Chinese Zhong Qixin, who established the World Record at the World Cup in Huaiji (China) in October 2010, running the 15 metres track in 6.40 seconds.

The fastest woman is the Chinese He Cuilian, who ran the 15 metres in 9.04 seconds at the World Championship 2009 in Qinghai, China.