Following the first and second stages of Paraclimbing finals at IFSC World Championships Innsbruck 2018, 32 of the fastest men and women Speed climbing athletes on the planet went head-to-head in the bracket-style finals on the 15-metre Speed wall.
Poland topped the scoreboard in the women’s Speed final, sending four athletes to the quarterfinal and three athletes to the medal races. Rudzinska faced only Polish teammates on the way to the top of the podium after the first round. She edged Patrycja Chudziak in the quarterfinal by five hundredths of a second and capitalised on a slip from Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 qualified athlete Aleksandra Kalucka in the semi-final. After falling just shy of a medal in 2016, Rudzinska found redemption in Innsbruck, racing to the fastest time of the women’s Speed final (7.560 seconds) to best Anna Brozek for gold. Brozek recorded only times under eight seconds in placing 2nd. In the small final, Mariia Krasavina (RUS) won the bronze medal after a false start from Kalucka. Previous world champion Anna Tsyganova (RUS) placed 8th in Innsbruck, and Speed world record holders Anouck Jaubert (FRA) and Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) were both knocked out of finals in the first round.
Limiting errors and maintaining consistency across races proved critical to success in the men’s Speed final, and Alipourshenazandifar did exactly that. The men’s Speed world record holder compiled three times under 6 seconds in the men’s Speed final, with his lowest time coming in the big final against Bassa Mawem (FRA). Both athletes sped to the finishing pad, but a slip from Mawem at the very last move was all it took for Alipourshenazandifar to claim the victory in Innsbruck and become Speed world champion after placing 3rd in 2014 and 2nd in 2016. Stanislav Kokorin, the only other athlete to record three times under 6 seconds in the men’s Speed final, continued the form in the small final against QiXin Zhong (CHN) for bronze. Zhong, a former world champion, recorded the best time of the men’s Speed final (5.609 seconds) in placing 4th. Previous world champion Marcin Dzienski placed 10th in Innsbruck. To see how all the nations compare in medals, find the provisional medal table on the IFSC web page for World Championships.
The final medals in Paraclimbing will be distributed on Friday, and the 2018 women’s Bouldering world champion and medallists will be known by evening’s end. Tune-in to the IFSC homepage to watch the LIVE streaming, and USA viewers can watch the women’s Bouldering semi-finals and finals LIVE on the IFSC website here. The schedule, links to replays, results and photos can be found on the Innsbruck event pages for Climbing and Paraclimbing, and don’t forget you can join the chat on Twitter at #IFSCwch.
USA viewers click here for the full replay of Speed finals on OlympicChannel.com.