We are delighted to unveil the Youth Olympic Games climbing wall, imagined by the IFSC and GeckoKing, the climbing branch of CCSC (Chongqing China Sports Construction). At 30 meters wide and 15 meters tall, the wall is sure to stand out at the Nanjing Sports Lab!
The wall, composed of two overhanging lead walls that meet in an arch, bordered by boulder walls on both sides. But what about speed? There will be no standard speed wall. Instead, classic format speed competitions will be organized on parts of the lead walls. IFSC International Route setter Adam Pustelnik, who is travelling to Nanjing with the Sport Climbing Delegation, explains:
“It means that the route for the competition is not standardized and depends only on the route setters’ idea. Of course it has to be adequate for the competition, that is, 'fast and furious,' but there is no official scheme that we have to follow, and we have space for being creative and introducing different ideas."
Each day, 2 new lead routes and 2 to 4 boulders will be set for showcase climbing and initiation. Our route setters have the ambition of making the lower parts of the routes more accessible, and the higher parts will climb in difficulty, so that initiates can climb on the same routes as world-class competitors. Pustelnik comments:
“We will try to introduce as many climbing styles as we can - to present climbing in the best way possible. To show it with all the differences and beauties of each style. Dynamic, powerful, technical, coordination, speed—we will try to show as much of it as possible. Each day we will be setting two routes and two to four boulders for the athletes to perform. For each day of the showcase we will be preparing new routes and boulders to get as much variety possible.”
The athletes are excited for their upcoming trip to the Youth Olympic Games. How do the route setters feel about the event? Says Pustelnik,
“It's great to have this opportunity to show to the wide young audience how interesting climbing can be. It's probably the best type of promotion a sport we can have. I'm very excited about it and interested to work in fact together with the athletes to create a great show for the audience.”
Jonas Chapuis, the other half of the route setting team traveling to Nanjing, says of his sport:
"Sport climbing is a young discipline. but it's also a discipline that we bind to in our youth. As a child, we tried to move without distinction, vertically as well as horizontally, and we've developed gestural baggage inherent to our specific morphology. We each have a style."
"Climbing is emotion, translated through improbable and impressive sequences of movements. A mix of coordination, power, holding on, and taking risks, climbing is a huge adrenaline rush to all involved, from spectators to beginners. Sport climbing is the demonstration that there is not only one method, but many styles related to different body types and characters."
Keep checking back for more information about the Sport Climbing at the Nanjing Sports Lab at the 2014 Youth Olympic Games this August 17-27, 2014!