Host of the IFSC Youth World Championships and IFSC World Cup this year, Moscow added last week a third elite international Sport Climbing competition to its 2018 collection. The World Military Championships programme includes 25 sports recognised by the International Military Sports Council (CISM), and the recently signed convention of collaboration between the CISM and the IFSC paved the way for Sport Climbing’s debut. The 1st edition of the CISM Climbing Indoor World Military Championships took place from November 28th to December 2nd and showcased the talent of top military Bouldering, Lead and Speed climbing athletes.
Former IFSC World Cup season champions Mina Markovic and Domen Skofic concluded their 2018 tenures by setting the high points in qualifications and finals on Wednesday. Markovic climbed at least five moves higher than her competitors on every route and was the only woman in Moscow to clip the top chains. Skofic broke a four-way tie after qualifications and cracked the code to the crux sequence in finals to make it back-to-back wins for Slovenia.
The spotlight turned the following four days to the host nation of Russia. Aleksandr Shikov and previous world champion Anna Tsyganova recorded the fastest times in Speed qualifications and finals on Thursday and raced to first place in the standard record format. Shikov edged Amir Maimuratov of Kazakhstan in a close men’s big final by eight hundredths of a second. Less than one second decided the women’s big final as well, and Tsyganova maintained a steady pace to best Youth Olympian and compatriot Elena Krasovskaia.
One missed top was all it took to fall out of the running for first place in Bouldering. Krasovskaia and Aleksei Rubtsov set the bar high in qualifications on Friday and finals on Saturday by topping every problem. Rubtsov fell just once in the men’s qualification and showed perseverance in the final, using 13 attempts to top four problems and completing the sole top of the last problem for the victory. Krasovskaia showed equal spirit, fighting for tops until the very end to stand atop the podium. Austria also excelled in Bouldering and placed three athletes on the podiums.
Regarded as the home of Speed climbing, Russia featured a throwback to the classic format before the closing ceremony on Sunday. Athletes raced up two non-standardized routes of similar difficulty and were compared at each stage based on their aggregate time across the two routes. Krasovskaia and Evgeniya Lapshina guaranteed a win for Russia by reaching the women's big final, and Lapshina saved one second to take the victory. Shikov again met Maimuratov in the big final, claiming his second gold medal and sixth for Russia after a fall from Maimuratov.
World Championship (2016) in speed.
Wednesday 28th November
10:30 Lead Qualification - Women
12:30 Lead Qualification - Men
19:00 Lead Finals
Thursday 29th November
14:30 Speed Qualifications (Record Format)
16:30 Opening Ceremony
17:00 Speed Finals (Record Format)
Friday 30th November
13:30 Bouldering Qualification - Women
18:00 Bouldering Qualification - Men
Saturday 1st December
18:00 Bouldering Finals
Sunday 2nd December
14:30 Speed Qualifications (Classic Format)
16:00 Speed Finals (Classic Format)
18:00 Closing Ceremony