The IFSC World Cup season continued this weekend with the second stage of the China Tour. In the end, fractions of seconds in Speed and two thrilling final ascents in Lead decided the gold medals in Wujiang.
After winning the first two events in Chongqing and Nanjing and setting the women’s Speed world record in both cities, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia continued to dominate in China today. She registered four times below eight seconds, including in a tight final race against rival Anouck Jaubert of France where seven hundredths of a second made the difference. Jaubert earlier tied Kaplina’s teammate Anna Tsyganova in the quarterfinal and overcame a slip in the rerun to advance. In the small final, a false start by Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia handed the bronze medal to Elizaveta Ivanova of Russia. It was the first IFSC World Cup medal for Ivanova and Susanti Rahayu matched the best performance for a female Indonesian athlete at an IFSC Speed World Cup.
Indonesia also performed superbly in the men’s final. Aspar Jaelolo matched the best performance for a male Indonesian athlete at an IFSC Speed World Cup, placing second to Aleksandr Shikov in a thrilling final race. Both athletes climbed flawlessly, and Shikov won his first gold medal by stopping the timer one hundredth of a second sooner than Jaelolo. In the small final, a false start from Sabri Sabri gave his compatriot Sufriyanto Rindi the second medal for Indonesia in Wujiang. Former season champion QiXin Zhong placed sixth in front of his home crowd, and frontrunner Vladislav Deulin maintained strong positioning in the season rankings by placing eighth.
Shortly after the Speed finals, an exciting Lead final concluded the climbing in Wujiang today. The women were first on the wall, and Julia Chanourdie of France won her first IFSC World Cup medal by setting a formidable high point at the start of the headwall. That mark stood until Jain Kim of Korea reached the top hold, slipping off with two seconds remaining. As so often this season, Janja Garnbret concluded the final with a top for the victory. Earlier this year, she placed first in Chongqing and second in Nanjing in Bouldering, and now she is in an even stronger position to defend her season Lead title. Bouldering star Akiyo Noguchi of Japan finished in fourth place.
Bouldering winners also excelled in the men’s final. Season Bouldering champion Jongwon Chon of Korea was first to set a significant high point which was surpassed by only two finalists. Tomoa Narasaki of Japan, former season Bouldering champion and runner-up this year, put forth a quick and dynamic effort which netted him second place in Wujiang. The man none of them could best was Stefano Ghisolfi. Having won twice already in China, the Italian star improved his positioning in the season rankings by powering past the steepest section, shaking out on the headwall and calmly completing the sole top. Season leader Romain Desgranges placed fifth.
For the current season rankings, please click here.