After the first stop of the Asian Tour at IFSC World Cup Chongqing last weekend, the best Bouldering and Speed athletes in the world travelled east to Nanjing, China. The temperatures were high again this weekend, but the athletes rose to the challenge!
Like at Chongqing, the world’s fastest Speed climbers continued to post blistering times on the 15-meter Speed wall. The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60 seconds by Danyil Boldyrev at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, a mark that has held up against many formidable athletes. Today, Reza Alipourshenazandifar raised the bar, posting a new men’s Speed world record of 5.48 seconds in the semi-final race against Bassa Mawem of France, who finished 4th. The Iranian star registered no times above 6 seconds, and he completed the historic weekend with a victory in the final match after a fall from runner-up Aleksandr Shikov of Russia. Vladislav Deulin, winner at Chongqing, continued to compete well in China and finished with Bronze at Nanjing.
For the women, 2016 season champion Iuliia Kaplina remained unstoppable, following up her win at Chongqing with another page in the record books. She again broke her own women’s Speed world record in Nanjing, besting her Russian teammate Mariia Krasavina in the last face-off with a time of 7.38 seconds. Despite missing last season, Krasavina has looked spectacular in her return to the IFSC World Cup and finished on her second consecutive podium. Anouck Jaubert of France placed 3rd after a false start from Russian Anna Tsyganova in the small final.
On the mats, Shauna Coxsey returned to the top of the podium, swapping places with Chongqing winner and her rival this season, Janja Garnbret. The 18-year-old from Slovenia started strong with a quick flash of the double-dyno on W1, but Coxsey came back with a flash of her own on W2, showing the Nanjing crowd her power and flexibility. Both athletes completed the one-arm pull-up of W4, leaving W3 as the difference maker. The British star found the solution to the slab before time expired, giving her a second victory this year. Miho Nonaka of Japan also topped W3 and finished 3rd with two tops. Korean Jain Kim, who also climbed at Chongqing, competed in her first IFSC Bouldering World Cup finals since 2012 and mastered the powerful sequence of W4 for 4th place.
The first problem for the men was technical, and only Japanese teammates Keita Watabe and Tomoa Narasaki stuck the cartwheel tilt to the bonus hold. Watabe powered through M2, and Bronze medallist Jernej Kruder of Slovenia joined him at the top. All three athletes completed a dynamic M3, but Watabe secured his first IFSC Bouldering World Cup victory by connecting all the crimps of M4 on his first try. Narasaki and Chongqing winner Jongwon Chon also flashed the last problem for 2nd and 4th place.
Saturday 29th April
09:30-13:30 Men Bouldering Qualification
19:00-21:30 Women Bouldering Qualification
Sunday 30th April
09:30-11:30 Men and Women Bouldering Semi-Finals (LIVE)
13:00-14:00 Men and Women Speed Qualifications
15:00-16:00 Men and Women Speed Finals (LIVE)
18:30-20:00 Men and Women Bouldering Finals (LIVE)
20:30 Awarding Ceremony (LIVE)